4

Short Orders: Tre Amici

^
Keep Dallas Observer Free
I Support
  • Local
  • Community
  • Journalism
  • logo

Support the independent voice of Dallas and help keep the future of Dallas Observer free.

Tre Amici
18020 N. Dallas Pwky.
972-250-4400

It opened at the end of last year as Fruia's Tre Amici and, under that name, the far north steakhouse reviewed quite well.

A few months ago, however, the other partners ousted their biggest--talking about name recognition here--colleague, Judd Fruia and changed the name to Tre Amici Parkway Grill, and then to Tre Amici Prime Steak and Seafood...although menu covers and some of the minor signage still lauds the big guy.

So, has anything else changed...like the food?

When I reviewed the place, their lobster bisque was well balanced but full of scrap lobster--chewy, with remnants of cartilage in every bite. Fruia fixed that after the review, but the chef seems to have reverted to his 'waste not' ways, turning the soup into a dumping ground. Too much sherry skewed the flavor and mouth feel, as well.

Their salmon entree at review time was one of the best pieces of that fish served in Dallas. Thankfully, it still is: reams of cushy fat, supple meat, mild flavor and a patina of salt, pepper and inscrutable spice that sparks the crust without dominating the fish.

Just what you want from grilled salmon.

So they've backpedaled on one dish, lost nothing at all on another. Service remains smooth and personable, business decent...most likely they still follow the Fruia mantra of treating regulars well.

They lost a personality, but apparently little else.

Keep the Dallas Observer Free... Since we started the Dallas Observer, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Dallas, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Dallas with no paywalls.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.

 

Join the Observer community and help support independent local journalism in Dallas.

 

Join the Observer community and help support independent local journalism in Dallas.