Denton's Big Secret: A Late Night Doughnut Speakeasy

Drinking around the Denton Square is an adventure every time.

I’ve been to most of the bars around the square: the ones in houses, the not-so-secret speakeasy and the new witch bar, amongst the throng of breweries, beer gardens, arcade bars and dive bars, you’d think that I had sniffed out all of the secrets the Denton square has to offer.

You thought wrong.

The first time I drunkenly stumbled upon The Back Dough, I had no idea what it was. I saw a suspiciously long line forming behind Queenie’s Steakhouse and had nothing better to do than hop in line and hope for a nice surprise once I made my way to the front.

The surprise was nice. More than nice, even. I had stumbled upon a doughnut speakeasy.
The Back Dough in Denton is an artisan doughnut shop that materializes every Friday and Saturday night, serving two types of doughnuts from the kitchen window of the staff entrance at Queenie’s Steakhouse.

The window frames and doorway, painted a periwinkle purple, hint at a bustling kitchen just behind the frosted glass. The unlit neon sign and chalkboard detailing what two new flavors are on the menu each week are the only indication that the staff entrance is anything but. It’s very easy to pass by without noticing the sign that brags of flavors like “Mr. Fudge Turtle” and “Candied Maple Bacon” if you aren’t already looking for it.

Every week, the chalkboard is updated with exclusive, made-from-scratch doughnuts that will no longer grace the menu once they’re sold out Saturday night.

Right at 10 p.m. the “Back Dough” neon sign flickers, but doesn’t turn on - apparently the neon is as averse to the summer heat as non-native Texans are - and the door’s window opens.
More often than not, the smiling face that greets customers is Marina Lukens. She is a lead server at Queenies and has been leading the Back Dough’s service for nearly four years.

“The regulars are phenomenal, and I love being a little part of their weekend,” Lukens says. “Besides regulars, everyone new to the concept is really excited to be there; it’s a really contagious feeling. I love it.”

On this particular night, I couldn’t walk away without trying both the Mr. Fudge Turtle and the Candied Maple Bacon.

As with every time I have gone, there is always one flavor that seriously outperforms the other. Though that could be because of personal preference.

The Candied Maple Bacon doughnut was something to write home about. The maple glaze was not too sweet and the candied bacon garnishing the top gave it an incredible savory balance.

The Mr. Fudge Turtle was good, but it did not hold a candle to its companion.

“One of my favorite doughnuts we’ve done was a pretty fantastic tiramisu doughnut,” Lukens said. “Lady finger cookies, homemade sweet cream, the whole business. On the savory side, I’d have to say a jalapeno popper doughnut we did a couple years ago stands out.”

Typically, the Back Dough offers one sweet and some savory - or savory adjacent - doughnut each week. The doughnuts are a bit steep at $6 a pop, but if you want to treat yourself to a made-from-scratch artisan doughnut, this is the place to splurge.

There’s talk that there was once a fried pickle doughnut. We’re upset we missed that one.

We will be back soon to see what new flavors they’ve concocted.

Queenie's Steakhouse, 115 E. Hickory St., Denton; Back Dough hours Friday and Saturday, 10 p.m. until sold out