When Deep Ellum's Will Call relocated down Main Street to the former Independent Bar and Kitchen spot, they ended up with a new space and a new chef.
Josh Farrell (you may know him from Nameless Chefs) has taken over the kitchen here, where he's already impressing some with nearly perfect fries and wings that have people raving. They're still in the soft open phase, and we'll talk to Farrell all about what he has planned for this spot soon.
But right now, we're here to tell you, you must go and get dessert. He has a couple of sweet items worth trying, but there's one plate that since tasting, I've been thinking about daily. It's become a weird obsession, one that won't release me until I get my hands on it again. As I type this, it's the afternoon, and the damn place doesn't open until 7 p.m., increasing my anxiety-ridden hunger.
Duck fat-chocolate cookies.
One of these cookies makes up for any under-salted, too-light-on-the-fat cookie you've ever had.
Plenty of Farrell's food is funky, not so much of a "we let this sit out forever and it fermented to craziness" kind of way, but in a "we're going to put Kool-Aid in your ketchup" kind of way. These don't have too much craziness, other than the duck fat being a different ingredient; but now I'm wondering why all cookies don't have this wonderful fat. This one also has Chinese five spice, offering a level of warmth that makes you wonder what exactly it is you're eating in this dessert.
Josh Farrell with his spilled milk dessert. (More on that later.)
James Villa Photography
"It kind of made sense to me, given that duck goes so well with sweet foods," Farrell says. "And I saw no one else was doing it."
He first executed the concept when he was at the Mansion, where he did a duck fat baklava, he says. A lot of work to make, but a really good result. This cookie is a little less work while offering all the same joy to the consumer.
They're the cookie you didn't realize you're craving: a slight crisp exterior that gives way to a soft dough filled with melting chocolate. What more could we want out of life than that?
Will Call, 2712 Main St. (Deep Ellum).