Sara Kerens
A grilled porkchop with ancho chili and honey sauce is at home in Komali's chic space.
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Komali
4152 Cole Ave., Ste. 106, 214-252-0200, www.komalirestaurant.com. Open 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Monday-Saturday and 10:30 a.m.-3:00 p.m. Sunday. $$-$$$
Queso de cabra: $9
Antojitos Mexicanos: $10.50
Crema de poblano: $6
Vuelve a la vida: $18.50
Pollo en mole negro de Oaxaca: $19
Filete de res almendrado: $25
Chile relleno de jaiba: $16.50
Chocoflan: $6.50
Churros con chocolate: $6.50
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Not all was lost. Two other dishes, also bookends, were encouraging. The first, the crema de poblano, a chest-warming corn chowder swimming with tortilla strips, gave off a mild and welcomed heat. The other was the crispy churros dessert, given a sprinkle of sugar and served with a cup of hot chocolate for dipping. I watched as it transported my wife, who is of Mexican heritage, back in time to when she drank Abuelita Mexican hot cocoa.
At Komali, a web of selections representative of central Mexico and the states of Oaxaca, Veracruz and Yucatan becomes a sticky knot. If the restaurant is a sign of Mexican food's state in Dallas, let's hope it is a brief stumble.