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Restaurant Reviews

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Tramontana: A Restaurant Made for Grandma Tramontana: A Restaurant Made for Grandma
, March 11, 2010
This ain't your mother's bistro. No, it's your grandmother's. And if you visit Tramontana of an evening, though not too long past the witching... More >>
Bailey's Prime Plus Park Lane: A steakhouse good for the ole boys as well as the girls. Bailey's Prime Plus Park Lane: A steakhouse good for the ole boys as well as the girls.
, March 04, 2010
"Wow. Looks kind of like a casino," I said to my BFF (best food friend) as we approached the entrance. "Or a strip club." An upscale one at that.... More >>
At Plano's Fish Shack, It's Not About The Location, The Presentation Or Even The Service--It's All About The Fish At Plano's Fish Shack, It's Not About The Location, The Presentation Or Even The Service--It's All About The Fish
, February 25, 2010
At Fish Shack, location is not everything. Nor is presentation. Nor, come to think of it, is appearance, plate-arrival timing, or even the name... More >>
Club Sushi Club Sushi
, February 18, 2010
Late one Friday we were seated for dinner in the central dining area of what seemed like a relatively quiet spot, Otaru Nippon Collection... More >>
DISH Suffers From a Lack of Focus on Getting the Food Right DISH Suffers From a Lack of Focus on Getting the Food Right
, February 11, 2010
The egg must not be cold. Here we are in Oak Lawn's dishiest new restaurant, DISH (the insistent capital letters an attempt to elevate the... More >>
The Search for an English Pub in North Texas is Over. We've Found the Holy Grail. The Search for an English Pub in North Texas is Over. We've Found the Holy Grail.
, February 04, 2010
Just what makes a pub a "pub"? If we're speaking of an English place, it should serve fish and chips. Most of them list a number of beers and... More >>
India West Is Really Just An Upscale DNA Copy of Its Sister Restaurant, Kebab N Kurry. India West Is Really Just An Upscale DNA Copy of Its Sister Restaurant, Kebab N Kurry.
, January 28, 2010
There are two possible reasons why India West's dining room was so sparsely populated the evening of my final visit. One involves the presence... More >>
The Mansion's New Chef Bruno Davaillon Is  Breaking Into The Job Slowly, But It Seems Just A Matter Of Time Before His Celebrity Shines. The Mansion's New Chef Bruno Davaillon Is Breaking Into The Job Slowly, But It Seems Just A Matter Of Time Before His Celebrity Shines.
, January 21, 2010
In the absence of Michelin stars, The Mansion on Turtle Creek serves as Dallas' culinary measuring stick. The priciest restaurants are described... More >>
The Salvadorian Restaurant, Mario Sabino's, Suffers From An Identity Crisis, Lost Between The Sameness Of A Local Chain and The Authenticity of a Mom-And-Pop Shop. The Salvadorian Restaurant, Mario Sabino's, Suffers From An Identity Crisis, Lost Between The Sameness Of A Local Chain and The Authenticity of a Mom-And-Pop Shop.
, January 14, 2010
A couple years ago I sat in some fancy French restaurant watching two servers wheel a polished brass cart to my table. One of them fussed about a... More >>
Grace is Worth the Weight Grace is Worth the Weight
, January 07, 2010
Some people insist a diet of fatty foods not only rounds out the waistline, it also invites a series of almost certain future ills. If they're... More >>
This Decade Saw Dallas Evolve Into A Major Player On The National Dining Scene This Decade Saw Dallas Evolve Into A Major Player On The National Dining Scene
, December 31, 2009
Back in the spring of 2001, I sat with a group of friends in the dining room of Cuba Libra. Just about a year ago, I found myself at almost the... More >>
Jorge's Tex-Mex reaches for the ordinary and beyond in its upscale digs. Jorge's Tex-Mex reaches for the ordinary and beyond in its upscale digs.
, December 24, 2009
Tex-Mex establishments usually thrive on the come-as-you-are crowd, drawing from a vast array of jeans and ball caps and, long about brunch on... More >>
Stephan Pyles is Back in Fine Form -- Again -- With Samar Stephan Pyles is Back in Fine Form -- Again -- With Samar
, December 17, 2009
A friend tells me that when she dined at Samar, the waiter was forced to reach around and serve wine from the wrong side—an act for which... More >>
Urban Crust: Great Pizza. Great Bar. What More Do You Want? Urban Crust: Great Pizza. Great Bar. What More Do You Want?
, December 10, 2009
"Where do you want to sit?" the waitress asks as I step inside Urban Crust. It hardly matters, so I shrug in response. The waitress—her... More >>
Hacienda On Henderson Has a Small Window And a Great Patio To Get Things Right Hacienda On Henderson Has a Small Window And a Great Patio To Get Things Right
, December 03, 2009
The people of Dallas love a good patio. But until places such as Dragonfly and Fearing's began sculpting refined enclosures and The Londoner... More >>
Craft, Despite the Economy, Just Keeps Plugging Along With its Simple Style of Minimalist Elegance. Craft, Despite the Economy, Just Keeps Plugging Along With its Simple Style of Minimalist Elegance.
, November 26, 2009
Craft is the Forrest Gump of Dallas restaurants. Not that the sophisticated space on the W Hotel's ground floor is in any way slow or befuddled... More >>
Uptown’s Geisha House Offers An On-Again, Off-Again Japanese Dining Experience. Try Going When It’s On-Again. Uptown’s Geisha House Offers An On-Again, Off-Again Japanese Dining Experience. Try Going When It’s On-Again.
, November 19, 2009
Like so many Asian restaurants, Geisha House sets its tables with disposable wooden chopsticks, the kind you break apart before using. The things... More >>
Smoke Gets In Your Eyes, Nose, Hair and Mouth--And That's A Good Thing Smoke Gets In Your Eyes, Nose, Hair and Mouth--And That's A Good Thing
, November 12, 2009
Smoke is—and isn't—what you think it is. There's barbecue all right, just as the name implies: brisket, ribs, even pulled pork. Chef... More >>
Chef Tre Wilcox, of Bravo and Food Network Fame, Wants to Make a Celebrity of his Restaurant, LOFT 610 Chef Tre Wilcox, of Bravo and Food Network Fame, Wants to Make a Celebrity of his Restaurant, LOFT 610
, November 05, 2009
Tre Wilcox shrugs off the name recognition gained through appearances on some of television's most popular cooking shows. "My window has passed,"... More >>
Smokin' at C.T.'s Real Deal BBQ Smokin' at C.T.'s Real Deal BBQ
, October 29, 2009
Even over the phone, you can feel Corey Toney's smile when he talks about his South Dallas barbecue joint, C.T.'s Real Deal BBQ. "There's a brick... More >>
York Street Gets It Right by Doing Everything Wrong York Street Gets It Right by Doing Everything Wrong
, October 22, 2009
Sharon Hage went about everything the wrong way when she opened York Street way back in May 2001. Not only was she among the first to tie her... More >>
In a City of Gaudy Prime Beef Palaces, Dragonfly Has No Problem Laying Claim to "Best Steaks in Dallas." In a City of Gaudy Prime Beef Palaces, Dragonfly Has No Problem Laying Claim to "Best Steaks in Dallas."
, October 15, 2009
Batman is suspended over the ocean waves with a shark clinging to his leg. Beating the beast on its nose fails to knock the 6-foot monster loose,... More >>
Good Pizza Makes Good Neighbors at Urbino on Henderson. Good Pizza Makes Good Neighbors at Urbino on Henderson.
, October 08, 2009
When David Pedack fires up his rickety ZAP car—a three-wheeled all-electric bug assembled in Hong Kong—and clatters down the street... More >>
Tea Thyme & Tisane offers a taste of ’70s small-town  Texas--and a big helping of 2009 Internet promotion Tea Thyme & Tisane offers a taste of ’70s small-town Texas--and a big helping of 2009 Internet promotion
, October 01, 2009
As a kid, my parents subjected our family to a couple different themed meals on a regular basis. One was Dad's weekly catfish and hushpuppies... More >>
Ah, Espana Ah, Espana
, September 24, 2009
There's a boundary, a set of criteria, something that delineates those who like appetizers from those who quiver at the mention of tapas. Wish I... More >>
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From the Print Edition

Tramontana: A Restaurant Made for Grandma Tramontana: A Restaurant Made for Grandma
By Elaine Liner

This ain't your mother's bistro. No, it's your grandmother's. And if you visit Tramontana of an evening, though not too long past the witching hour of 8, you'll likely see… More >>

Bailey's Prime Plus Park Lane: A steakhouse good for the ole boys as well as the girls. Bailey's Prime Plus Park Lane: A steakhouse good for the ole boys as well as the girls.
By Jenny Block

"Wow. Looks kind of like a casino," I said to my BFF (best food friend) as we approached the entrance. "Or a strip club." An upscale one at that. It… More >>

The Original Pancake House: Big, Filled, Affordable Pancakes. Is This Heaven?
By Alice Laussade

Got a hangover? Of course you do, it's a weekday. And when you wake up feeling like your forehead's been bitch slapped by a truck, pancakes are the one true… More >>

At Plano's Fish Shack, It's Not About The Location, The Presentation Or Even The Service--It's All About The Fish At Plano's Fish Shack, It's Not About The Location, The Presentation Or Even The Service--It's All About The Fish
By Jesse Hughey

At Fish Shack, location is not everything. Nor is presentation. Nor, come to think of it, is appearance, plate-arrival timing, or even the name of the place—when's the last time… More >>

Dr. Bell's BBQ
By Alice Laussade

If Dr.Bell's BBQ were a chick, she'd be a total slut. For months, all I've been hearing is "Dr. Bell's is freaking awwwwesooome," "Dude. Dr. Bell's. You have to go… More >>