San Martino Winery: A Fine Place to See Red — But Only Red

When you think of wine-making countries in Europe, most people naturally assume France and Italy have just about cornered the market. Indeed, Italian and French wines are known around the world as standard-bearers of the tipple craft for centuries. However, more and more people are being drawn to the affordable...
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When you think of wine-making countries in Europe,
most people naturally assume France
and Italy have
just about cornered the market. Indeed, Italian and French wines are known
around the world as standard-bearers of the tipple craft for centuries. However,
more and more people are being drawn to the affordable wines of Spain,
the soft, supple whites and the rich, robust reds, often sold in America
at prices equal to or in many cases far below those of their European
counterparts.

San Martino is a village in the Galician region of Spain
that was the early home of Emilio Ramos. In 2003, he and his wife Maria created
San Martino Winery in the far-flung wilds of greater Rockwall to realize their
dreams of making Spanish-style wines for thirsty North Texans. They built one
of the most beautiful wineries in all of North Texas, a
delightful, mission-style building, complete with modern tasting room and two
spacious outdoor patios overlooking a serene wooden lot, an oasis of sanity in
the confusion of the city. Their black cat Tinto rules over the entire domain
and graciously welcomes visitors.

Tastings are $8 for samplings of five wines, or $12 for
tastes from the reserve list, and prices are $8 and $12 respectively if you
decide to purchase by-the-glass. I sampled several wines, and can heartily
endorse the quality of San Martino’s quaff, but only if you are a red-wine
drinker.

You see, San Martino’s specialty is red wines, so much so
that white wines have but one offering per list, a rather unmemorable Chardonnay.
I was intrigued by the Rose 09, an unusual blend of tempranillo and orange
muscat, but the bold, spicy start was undermined by a long turpentine finish. Red
blends fared much better, with the Sir Cab (a blend of syrah and cabernet
sauvignon), the Bruiser’s Red, and the well- named, ultrasmooth Silk II being
particular standouts.

A couple of final notes. Some GPS
systems apparently place San Martino Winery south of Interstate 30, when in fact it is
north of the interstate, north of Rockwall and east of Lake Ray Hubbard. Also please call
the winery or check its website (www.sanmartinowinery.com),
because the hours of operation as listed on some other wine websites are
incorrect. In any case, its worth the search to sit on the patio and discover
your own little corner of Spain
in Dallas.

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