Pairing Off: Chef Boyardee

Let’s avoid the usual harsh commentary regarding canned meals and substitute, say, “moist” for “barely recognizable as a foodstuff, much less as pasta.” And how about “seasoning” in place of “past-its-prime dust from spice rack jars.” Finally, why not “hearty” instead of “cheap dog food.”With that said, Chef Boyardee’s beef…

Hash Over: The Holidays, Postponed And Celebrated

Just a few news items fitting for these recession-weary times…State & Allen Lounge decided to postpone their holiday wine gathering, planned for December 9, at the behest of patrons. The credit pangs associated with other seasonal demands–i.e., shopping–apparently put a damper on their party spirit. The restaurant hopes to announce…

How ‘Bout Them Knockers: Yumi To Go

Yumi To Go5200 Lemmon Ave.214-528-9864Promised delivery time: 25 minutesDelivered in: 21 minutesThe ScoreCojones of phone order guy: 20Driver beating the odds: 65Degree of difficulty: 9 (no one likes driving on Oak Lawn or Maple)Stoicism of driver: -8Bonus because he had reason for suspicion: 4Thai-style chicken skewer: 9Orange chicken: -1Total Score:…

Burning Question: How Much Time Do Chefs Spend In The Kitchen?

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Suze

“Suze. No, S-U-Z-E—it’s at Northwest Highway and Midway, right next to the Albertson’s.” This singular restaurant should need no introduction, but I probably suffered through this painstaking routine five times before finally convincing someone to join me for dinner one evening. Perhaps if I refrained from mentioning the strip-mall setting—makes…

On The Joy Of Pumpkin…And Pumpkin-Flavored Additives

Go anywhere, from high-dollar sit-downs to drive-thrus and you’ll find restaurants digging into seasonal fare. Right now, pumpkin gets the honors. So I drove around town checking out grab-and-go treats that showcase pumpkin’s autumnal flavor. On into December, I’ll look into gingerbread, cranberry, peppermint and more stocking-related goodies, but with…

Pairing Off: PB&J

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Back To School

North Texas Daily A friend of mine swears that he ate at Mr. Chopsticks in Denton at least five times a week during his tenure as a student at the University of North Texas during the late ’90s. He still makes a half-hour trip to the place a couple times…

Dude Food: Roma Express

Roma Express 1601 Main St. 214-747-1236It takes a big pair of pepperonis to make “Best Pizza In Dallas” your motto. But after trying the calzone at Roma Express, I plan a return visit to test that claim. And considering the not very dude friendly stretch of real estate it occupies…I…

Adventure in Grapevine

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How ‘Bout Them Knockers: Chef Chu

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Wild Time At The Well

When a box of bottled water samples from Mineral Wells arrived at the office this week, I claimed it immediately. I’m an unabashed snob who grimaces at tap water. At home I filter it through my PUR contraption before considering a drink. When I’m out and about it’s the bottled…

Hash Over: Pappas Alumni Return And A Cougar Hunter Branches Out

The old Rick Stein’s, soon to be the new Tre Amici. Every so often the planets slip completely out of alignment and all kinds of improbable things occur. Just yesterday, for example, Judd Fruia said of his soon-to-open Tre Amici restaurant in North Dallas, “the wine list is too big—I…

Girl Drink Drunk: Cosmos’ Hawaiian Punch

When a cosmo is “watered down” with vodka, even vision becomes slurred The original plan was to hit up the “upscale dive,” Lakewood Landing. But I talked to one of our favorite bartenders there (well, that’s not fair—they all are our favorites) and he said to let him think about…

Normandie Alliance Reaches for France and Comes Up Short

They were long and bleak, the months between March 2003 and January of this year—for local gourmands, anyway. Sure, one could pipe recorded accordion music through the place or dress waiters up in striped shirts and berets, but local restaurateurs could only dream of recreating the feel of an authentic…

Pairing Off: Turkey TV Dinners

Photo: Patrick Michels There are, essentially, two rules to Thanksgiving—well, three if you include football: turkey and lots of it. Of course, not everyone makes it to the big family gathering. Police and firefighters must remain on duty, truck drivers and…um…others, may find themselves stuck with a TV dinner and…

Dude Food: Stoneleigh P

Stoneleigh P 2926 Maple Ave. 214-871-2346 The Stoneleigh P has been a historic watering hole for the dudes of Dallas since it opened in the 70s. And by ‘dudes,’ we mostly mean rich dudes, at least judging by the parking lot, where on any given day you’re likely to spot…

From the Any—And I Mean Any—Excuse To Party Department

Dave & Buster’s celebrates the opening of their Arlington Highlands shopping center branch a week from today. That’s right, “celebrates” in the same sentence as “Arlington,” “shopping center” and “Dave & Buster’s.” Well, why not? The Dallas-based chain has been in operation for 25 years now and this 33,000 square…

A Rasher Act: Bacon Brings Families Together

Welcoming someone new into the family always requires food. Weddings, baby showers, engagement parties, introducing a girlfriend or boyfriend—they all feel incomplete until you’ve fired up the ol’ George Foreman. But it’s not enough to pop the fridge and tear open a bag of baby carrots. Different foods make different…

Burning Question: Which Ingredients Do Chefs Hate To Work With?

How would you like to slice into these everyday? Lobsters are easy. We mean that in a culinary sense. Bind up the pincers, drop them in water and commence to melting some butter. Likewise steak: a dash of salt, another of pepper and a crackling grill—that’s all there is to…