Decanter Means Well, We Just Wish It Did Better

The way the kitchen had envisioned it, a roundup of chocolate that followed a recent multi-course meal at Decanter was supposed to double as a dashing centerpiece. In a stroke of Cubist inspiration, the pastry chef had plated a thick slice of sweet potato chocolate terrine abutting a parfait glass…

Catfish Industry Fighting for New Labeling Laws in Texas

The catfish industry is targeting Texas as the next state to adopt country-of-origin labeling legislation. The Catfish Institute’s president Robert Barlow is now in Texas, rallying support for a bill introduced by state Senator Glenn Hegar. The proposed law, modeled after similar legislation already on the books in five Southeastern…

Cheerwine Release Incites Show of Regional Soda Love

Garden & Gun magazine yesterday stirred up the soda world with news that Cheerwine can now be ordered online, a development that should excite the drink’s many fans in Dallas. “Every single day we have someone asking about Cheerwine,” says Scott Causey, who staffs The Soda Gallery in the Bishop…

What 19-century Texans Ate for Independence Day

The first observances of Texas Independence Day were relatively sedate affairs: The semi-centennial in 1886 was marked by readings of the Declaration and a sprucing-up of Sam Houston’s grave. In Brenham, a congressman gave a speech that the local press deemed “eloquent and appropriate.” Many Texans didn’t bother with the…

Architects Head to Sushi Restaurant to Examine Relationship Between Food and Space

Forget paint colors and place mats: When professional architects analyze a restaurant’s ambiance, they’re generally most interested in how their colleague successfully dealt with fire codes and ductwork regulations. Non-architects are invited this Thursday to the Dallas Fish Market for what should be a revealing discussion of restaurant design, sponsored…

Oak Cliff Boils Up 500 Pounds of Crawfish for Mardi Gras Party

The key to enjoying crawfish, according to chef Michelle Carpenter, is patience. Carpenter, of Zen Sushi, is advising attendees at Mardi Gras Oak Cliff’s first-ever crawfish boil this Sunday to accept there’s no quick way to peel a mud bug. Carpenter, who’s preparing 500 pounds of crawfish for the event,…

Waiters Say the Darndest Things

You know what’s understood in every language? A check presenter. I’d wager there’s not a diner from Dubuque to Dubai who’s surprised by what he finds when he opens the leather-bound book that appears at the end of every meal. No competent restaurant-goer wastes time wondering if he’s been given…

Texas Wine Industry Considers Identifying Best of the Bunch

Texas wine enthusiasts seeking a better way to convey to consumers which local wines deserve their attentions are broaching the possibility of creating a wine quality program. Russ Kane, a wine writer who’s moderating a panel on wine quality at this week’s Texas Wine and Grape Growers Association conference in…

Putting Oyster Drills and Other Odd Creatures on Seafood Menus

Even sold under the retro name of “Gulf oysters” and pawned off for rock-bottom prices that makes oystermen shudder, oysters are still awfully sexy. The same can’t be said of oyster drills, one of the many trash fish and overlooked shellfish spotlighted in a Foodways Texas panel on by-catch. In…

Oyster Appellations Return to the Gulf Coast

More than a century ago, there wasn’t any such thing as a “gulf oyster.” Oysters were offered under specific place names — a tradition revived this weekend at the first Foodways Texas symposium in Galveston. The program wasn’t devoted entirely to oysters: Kelly Yandell, one of a few Dallas food…

Chili’s in Russia with a Fajita How-To

There’s something comfortingly retro about the east-west collision that occurred this month when Chili’s opened its first Russian location. When the Iron Curtain fell, our comrades apparently didn’t race to learn about margaritas and tortilla chips, which is why the lengthy menu offered at Chili’s in Moscow includes this helpful…

Battle Over Mi Cocina Name in Colorado Ends With Truce

Our sister paper in Denver today reports the M Crowd Restaurant Group has settled its lawsuit with a small Northwest Denver restaurant operating under the name “Mi Cocina”. According to the settlement’s terms, Saul Sierra may continue to use the name in a limited area of Colorado, a result that’s…

Restaurant Week Was All About Beef

While almost every Super Bowl visitor was told a different story, it looks like Dallas is still very much a steak town. A full six months after KRLD Restaurant Week, organizers have released numbers from the charitable event. The annual fundraiser raised a record $605,000 for the North Texas Food…

Central Texas Pitmasters Aren’t Going to SeaWorld

SeaWorld in Orlando this week announced it had invited local smokehouses to participate in its annual “Bands, Brew & BBQ” festival, an innovation that would make even more sense at the theme park’s South Texas location. But a spokesperson for SeaWorld San Antonio says the park has no plans to…

Del Taco’s Coming to Dallas

Del Taco’s signed the first franchisee it plans to recruit in its drive to open 80 restaurants around the Dallas area. Guillermo Perales’ Sun Holdings, which operates Popeye’s, Golden Corral, Burger King and CiCi’s Pizza restaurants, has added Del Taco to its portfolio. “We wanted to add a Mexican QSR…

King of Hushpuppies Debuts Product in Dallas

Dallas’ deep-frying ways have drawn the attention of a 200-year-old mix and meal manufacturer from North Carolina, which recently introduced its products to Texas. “We just wanted to expand our brand outside of the Southeast because of the prominent frying that’s going on there,” explains Keith Vines, House-Autry Mills’ vice…

La Fiorentina: Generic Doesn’t Always Equal Cheap.

Foremost among the many charms of Lucia, the homey Italian bistro that’s riveted local food lovers since it opened in Oak Cliff late last year, is the restaurant’s singularity. Eaters may swoon over chef David Uygar’s expert salumi or front-of-the-house deaconess Jennifer Uygar’s twinkle-eyed warmth, but neither food nor service…

Clock Not Ticking on Matt’s Rancho Martinez, Manager Says

A manager at Matt’s Rancho Martinez this afternoon categorically denied a report by The Dallas Morning News that the Lakewood fixture’s closing next year. “We’re not going anywhere,” he said. “There’s no truth to it.” The manager, who identified himself as “David,” says he’s heard rumors about the restaurant’s impending…

Austin Newcomer Creates Guide to Area’s Barbecue Joints

Gloria Corrall, the author of the newly self-published Barbecue Lover’s Guide to Austin was happy to talk to me when I called this morning: She just had to finish chewing a piece of smoked turkey first. Corrall’s eaten plenty of smoked meat since she moved from San Francisco to Austin…

Dallas Chefs Emerge as Leaders in Food & Wine Poll

With one voting weekend left in Food & Wine’s People’s Best New Chef online poll, the Southwest category’s shaping up as a three-way contest, with DFW darlings Casey Thompson and Tim Byres leading the pack. As of this morning, Thompson and Byres were locked in a vise-tight race, with Thompson…