All-American is a series that looks at beloved, longstanding North Texas eateries and examines their histories while exploring how the food has changed — for the good or bad — over the years. Lunch begins with Joe Pumphaung’s dumplings. We’re sitting in the sun room, an enclosed patio space that…

No matter what time you walk through the jangling doors, the season is always Texas fall at One90 Smoked Meats. It means that there’s warming, cheesy and smoky comfort food, the kind you eat near a crackling fire while wearing loose pajamas. The sound of “Wish You Were Here,” forever…

Dallas is, without a doubt, in the ancient Rome phase of cheeseburgers. We are flourishing with beef adorned decadently with curtains of American cheese and Martin’s soft potato rolls. We have everything: The Caligula-esque Fatburger, a California chain, will open at least 50 locations in Texas, joining the half-bacon insanity of…

All-American is a series that looks at beloved, longstanding North Texas eateries and examines their histories while exploring how the food has changed — for the good or bad — over the years. The layout of the Payless Store for Beer and Wine on Carroll Avenue goes a little something…

Lunch begins, right at 12 noon, with a few sounds. There’s the metal clang of the spoon in the coffee cup and the crisp shucking of a Dallas Morning News metro section opening up from the diner counter patron the next seat over. The wooden cuckoo clock chirps, and somewhere…

All-American is a series that looks at beloved, longstanding North Texas eateries and examines their histories while exploring how the food has changed — for the good or bad — over the years. In late August 2005, Vicky Zamora was sweeping the parking lot in front of her restaurant when…

It’s one of the negative effects of the burger golden age in Dallas: Farm-to-table beef and high-end ingredients are driving up prices and quality of the average bar cheeseburger. But amidst the pricey burger renaissance, the workhorse cheeseburger — the under-8-buck burger, a charred patty with unremarkable but eternally effective…

All-American is a series that looks at beloved, longstanding North Texas eateries and examines their histories while exploring how the food has changed — for the good or bad — over the years. You’ll find that time slows. You’ll take slower bites, thoughtful and concerted twirls of stir-fried noodles and…

Andrew Kelley drapes slices of white cheese over soft submarine rolls. He’s behind the counter, as usual, constructing sandwiches alongside co-owner (and his wife) Edi Kelley. After loading the pillowy bread with rounds of cheese, he looks up. “Do you want a Reuben? I could make you a Reuben,” he…

All-American is a series that looks at beloved, longstanding North Texas eateries and examines their histories while exploring how the food has changed — for the good or bad — over the years. Two thousand pounds of West Texas cucumbers tumble into a hot tub. Jets of water jostle them…

Chicken Parmesan is the sandwich equivalent of a deep breath. Breathe in and let warming tomato sauce and hand-stretched mozzarella, forever complementing a peppery, crispy Milanese-esque chicken breast, fix you right up. Chicken parm is pure comfort, as iconic and New York-Italian as buttermilk-brined fried chicken styled with pickle discs…

All-American is a series that looks at beloved, longstanding North Texas eateries and examines their histories while exploring how the food has changed — for the good or bad — over the years. There’s no chef and there’s no one at the door. It’s open. You can see into the…

Leading up to September’s Best of Dallas® 2017 issue, we’re sharing (in no particular order) our 100 Favorite Dishes, the Dallas entrées, appetizers and desserts that really stuck with us this year. The bar twinkles. A gin martini that’s as cold and covered in ice as a Chicago street in…

There’s a super burger block in Deep Ellum. On the walkable stretch of Malcolm X Boulevard at Elm and Main, there are four cheeseburgers in place that are the American sandwich equivalent of Marvel’s Defenders: the happy hour burger at Hide, Junction Craft Kitchen’s smashed beef, the oak-fire grilled at…

The Real Cheezy Burger, layered with Donkey Sauce, passes through the window. It’s a Saturday evening, and Dallas is cooler than usual with a Creamsicle sky. There’s no one else in line or waiting at Guy’s Burger Stand, tucked into the south-ish end of the Starplex Pavilion. A breeze kicks…

Civello’s Raviolismo is a humble factory. It’s bare-bones: There are a few metal tables; the ravioli-crafting equipment, most of it older than the internet; a few refrigerators rolling around; and a kitchen in the back. Sometime in the morning, Oralia Olguin presses her palms into a football-shaped wad of dough…

Leading up to September’s Best of Dallas® 2017 issue, we’re sharing (in no particular order) our 100 Favorite Dishes, the Dallas entrées, appetizers and desserts that really stuck with us this year. Some of the best dishes in the world happen at family meal. Traditionally, in the kitchen, it’s the…

Hudson House is like the opera: You need to go at least once. It feels inevitable that you’ll be eating there. The Inwood eatery from the people who brought us such yachty sandwich joints as East Hampton Sandwich Co. will draw you through the doors with Instagram-sharp shots of lobster rolls, champagne…

All-American is a series that looks at beloved, longstanding North Texas eateries and examines their histories while exploring how the food has changed — for the good or bad — over the years. She first climbed the steps six years ago. She and husband Teddy Davey had been performers in Las…

One of the most underestimated techniques in the making of a good cheeseburger is seasoning. The beef can take it: A half-pound patty accepts salt like a character in a Martin Scorsese movie snorts cocaine. Dust the loose-packed beef with hefty pinches of coarse pepper and salt, slide it onto…