A Stroke of Genius: the Dallas Burger That Doubles as a Taco

Just under two years ago, Dallas’ most underrated eatery swung open its window. The red banner above the ordering window still read “Comederia” in chunky white letters from the former taco stand. A chalkboard, hanging casually in front, announced the menu: a Cubano, coffees, sides, a roasted turkey sandwich and…

The Burger at Independent Bar and Kitchen Stays Focused

It’s tough to keep things simple in the burger capital of America. In Deep Ellum, there are at least 15 burgers to choose from in the meat ecosystem that spans from Canton to Elm, not counting the beaver burger at Twisted Root. There’s a $22 burger in there somewhere. Executive…

Stop Worrying About the Drive and Go to the Edge — the Burger Edge

Just over a week ago, we lost Jack Keller. Keller founded the iconic drive-in that deals in easy cheeseburger perfection. In a city with a restaurant scene that’s zipping forward like a time-lapse video, Keller’s remains true and unchanged. Simple, cheap cheeseburgers with a swipe of mustard, poppyseed bun and…

A Spotter’s Guide to Cheap and Expensive Burgers in Dallas

We’re living in the age of the high-end cheeseburger. The Kraft single suddenly lives harmoniously alongside Wagyu. Jarred pickles are Dodo birds, extinct after a long reign of artisan pickles. Custom buns have been spotted in greater numbers. Looking at Dallas’ ecosystem, burger options range from American Revolution-era cheap to…

How Did the Humble Cheeseburger Become a $20 Extravagance?

In Cameron, Texas, the afternoon’s rain clouds scatter from the sky as if by request. I’m rolling along in a truck belonging to Bob McClaren, president and CEO of 44 Farms. James Burks, 44 Farms general manager, is in the backseat. We pull up next to an area that looks…

The Burger at Smoke Should Be Recognized as a Texas Landmark

A rancher’s gloves clapping together, bats exploding from the Congress Avenue bridge, Tommy Lee Jones giving me a wink and a shoulder squeeze (on horseback), a Rangers game in July with that one guy hitting the snare drum — this is the movie-style montage that ran through my head when…

Bacon, Lettuce, Tomato and Dreams: The Seven Best BLTs in Dallas

There are a few sandwiches that should be immortal, living forever outside the cycle of food trends: Fried chicken sandwiches, old-fashioned cheeseburgers hugged with American cheese, sauerkraut-loaded Reubens and the BLT. Perfect bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwiches are gifts to us from Mount Olympus. To many, the BLT will always…

The Burger at City Council Bar and Restaurant Should Resign

The first thing you’ll notice at City Council Bar and Restaurant in Uptown is the decor. The entire restaurant is ready for its HGTV shoot: There are bookshelves made of leather straps, Edison bulbs the size of cucumbers, fresh flowers in jars and empty picture frames holding books on a…

One of Dallas’ Best Burgers Just Popped Up at Kitchen LTO

There’s something deeply satisfying about eating solo at the bar of a brand-spanking new restaurant. It’s the sights and smells. You have time to take things in. At Kitchen LTO, Chef Amoriello (of Driftwood, So & So’s, Rapscallion) is the brand new component. A caricature of him already hangs above the…

Vetted Well’s Burger May Be One of the Weirdest in Dallas

Having the Alamo Drafthouse in Dallas is the fulfillment of a long-running dream. Some of my favorite things to do in the universe are A) see movie at the Drafthouse, B) order the enormous popcorn bowl (hosed with real butter and grated herb Parmesan) and C) wash it down with…

The Burger at Montlake Cut Is a Beautiful, Medium-Rare Escape

Sitting at Montlake Cut’s bar near the scale sailboat in the window is like being teleported to the shore. An Olympia Beer motion sign churns the name of the crisp beer from the Pacific Northwest, and Edison bulbs in a white cage bring the feel of below-decks on a boat…

Eight Life-Changing Fried Chicken Sandwiches in Dallas

What day is this? Is today a national day of duck butter? Spaghetti Squash Day? Is it National Eat an Old Subway B.M.T. on a Bench Day? It’s hard to keep track of food trends in the age of food trends. Trends in food used to be simple: It was…

Sugarbacon’s Burger Overshadowed by Some of Dallas’ Best French Fries

Things are polished at Sugarbacon. Splatter-pattern art, like an alien ocean, sparkles near the entrance. Shiny copper reaches the ceiling behind the bar, and a couple of TVs, encased in smooth black, glisten. Sitting at the bar at Sugarbacon, looking towards the glowing liquors with the big chalkboard announcing draught…

Stellar Fries and Passable Burgers at Harvey B’s

Seconds after putting in an order for a half-pound burger at Harvey B’s, the kind lady who took my order yells “half!” to the kitchen behind her. It’s all about simplicity, stripped down the very keywords, at Harvey B’s. The menu reads like a collection of the words you’d yell,…

A First Look at Royale’s Magnificent Burgers

This is where the Alec Baldwin narration could begin: A cream-colored menu with illustrations is placed in front of MAN WHO LIKES BURGERS (Me, 31). A burger illustration wears a crown at the top of the menu. The man looks at the menu for a minute, and points, with one…

12 Observations on the Premiere of 11.22.63 (SPOILERS)

Listen: James Franco has come unstuck in time. In the TV-MA debut (there are many, many excellent F-bombs) of 11.22.63, the Hulu miniseries partly shot in Dallas, James Franco is bouncing back and forth between present day and 11:58 a.m. on October 21, 1960. Chris Cooper is there, coughing. A…