A couple years ago, Teiichi Sakurai did something that at the time seemed downright dimwitted. He ditched two stellar restaurants—Tei Tei and Teppo—and headed to Japan to learn about cooking. He's one hell of a student, judging by his new One Arts Plaza venture. Tei An specializes in Japanese noodles: soba and udon, but especially the former. Hand-made, nutty in flavor, when dipped into one of his broth selections (ranging from traditional Japanese to a Texas pecan) they become something exquisite. Tei An is memorable dining and a contender for best new restaurant. Guess in retrospect, he wasn't that dumb after all.