Food & Drink

Many white American food writers call tacos and other Mexican foods “humble,” but is a cuisine humble if its flavors are brash and bright, its traditions are worn with confidence and its sandwiches are so big they resemble ocean liners? There’s nothing humble about the tostadas at Frida’s Tacolandia. They…

American cheese should be the unofficial flag of Dallas in 2017. It could hang in the sky like a glittering yellow square, stiff and proud as the American flag on the moon. American cheese is the sigil of house Dallas, and it symbolizes, all jokes aside, a real movement in…

When family and friends come to town for the holidays, one question looms heavy over the entire visit: What the hell am I going to do with these people for the next several days? The easiest answer, of course, is eat, and you can’t truly experience Dallas cuisine without going…

It’s nearly impossible to detect when a seismic shift in your life is approaching. You must watch yourself and your surroundings carefully, and there may be coincidental signs. On a normal morning in Sanlitun, a bar district in Beijing, chef Andrew Dilda would walk out of his 40-story apartment building,…

91.3. According to the National Chicken Council, that’s how many pounds of chicken Americans will have consumed, per capita, in 2017. If that projection holds, it will mean that we as a country ate more of our fine, feathered friends than ever before in one year. And can you blame us?…

Construction ruptures the ground on Davis Street. Near its corner at Bishop Avenue, workers are standing in a carved-out rectangular slice in the middle of the road, and a massive crane reaches into the sky above Stock and Barrel. North Oak Cliff is, for better or worse, changing. On this…

All-American is a series that looks at beloved, longstanding North Texas eateries and examines their histories while exploring how the food has changed — for the good or bad — over the years. On an icy Christmas in Dallas about 34 years ago, Jesse Moreno Sr. scoured the neighborhood, looking…

It is no accident that this has been a stellar year for sandwiches in Dallas. From the boom of bars to skyrocketing construction, the city inflates with restaurants as if we’re inside a bubble made of butter. The byproduct of our little food boom is a growing movement throughout the…

This year, Observer food critic Brian Reinhart went on a very Eat, Pray, Love-esque pilgrimage around DFW, praying Google listed correct hours of operation while falling in love with strip-mall kebabs and Turkish ezme. In his soul search, Reinhart found a beautiful variety of cuisines and experiences, from Iraqi feasts in Richardson…

2017 will be remembered for a lot of uncomfortable societal change, such as the fact that Dallas barbecue is fancy now. Craft cocktails, mandatory valet, $28 chicken breasts, Ferris wheels: For some restaurateurs, a pile of meat on butcher paper isn’t enough anymore. Smoky Rose opened across from the Dallas…

Assuming you’ve done your Christmas shopping this year — and even if you haven’t — it’s safe to say many of us are a little tapped out right now. Gifts, travel, expensive sequined outfits we’ll wear to one holiday party and then never again — Christmas cheer doesn’t come cheap…

Just after Thanksgiving, you might have seen a sign on the door of Food From Galilee that caused a gravity-drop feeling in your gut. Under a red “help wanted” sign, a handwritten note on a sheet of yellow legal paper read, “Dear Customers: We will be closed due to a…