100 Favorite Dishes: Shrimp Cocktail
At TJ’s Seafood Market

As a countdown to the Dallas Observer’s “Best of Dallas” 2010, City of Ate is serving up 100 of the favorite dishes we crave, savor and hope to scarf down again soon. These dishes are in no particular order. Some are little known, others celebrated. Some are pricey, others can…

Tina Wasserman on Breaking the Fast for Yom Kippur

Breaking the fast on Yom Kippur, which starts Friday at sundown, usually calls for raiding the synagogue’s spread and making a mad dash for whichever restaurant puts the fewest obstacles between diners and food (Chinese buffets work well.) But what’s the best strategy for those ambitious hosts and hostesses who…

Eddie V’s: Like Taking a Cruise, Minus the Good Food and Service.

What’s fancy? As the brand new sequel to The Official Preppy Handbook reminds us, fancy isn’t surface glitz and remarked-upon glamour; real wealth is more likely to be conveyed by threadbare blazers and decades-old recipes for mild Bloody Marys than diamonds and Cristal. Fancy entails an insistence upon quality and…

Pizza Patron Wins With Loteria

Pizza Patron has issued what just might be this season’s prettiest promotion. The Dallas-based pizza chain, which explicitly celebrates “the Latin life,” is now distributing loteria-style discount cards in honor of Mexico’s bicentennial. The colorful cards visually reference the bingo boards that have been a staple of Mexican culture for…

El Tizoncito: From D.F. to Big D and Back Again

When I walk into a Latino-operated or staffed establishment, I am inevitably greeted in Spanish. It must be something about my skin color, my black hair and black Vandyke. They must be indicators of my ability to speak the language. My sisters can pass as white. Not I. Mrs. Ralat,…

Sneaky Meat: Survey Finds Chefs Sometimes Sabotage Vegan Dishes

Food Network magazine this week released the no doubt intentionally provocative results of an anonymous chef survey, in which chefs copped to stealing ideas, showing up for work sick, recycling bread and sabotaging orders that were sent back for recooking. As a former restaurant server, I’ve seen chefs do all…

The Pop-In: When Pop-Tarts Become Ingredients

According to the official corporate description, Pop-Tarts are toaster pastries. But after decades of pushing the treat as a ready-made breakfast, Kellogg’s seems to be repositioning the foil-wrapped snack as an ingredient. Since the Pop-Tart debuted in the 1960s, cooking with Pop-Tarts has generally meant sticking them in a toaster…

Five Misleading Food Terms

I was recently seated at Charlie Palmer near a group of seemingly-sophisticated diners (I was listening in on their conversation about the best way to get to Tanzania until Jon Voight showed up and I refocused my eavesdropping). They were working their way through a pile of sweetbreads when a…

Craft’s Jeff Harris: A Chef you Can Bank On

(This is the first part of a three-part look at Jeff Harris, executive chef at Craft. Tune in tomorrow for a Q&A with Harris and Friday as he demonstrates how to prepare one of the restaurant’s dishes.) Jeff Harris was raised in a small town in East Texas near Gilmer,…

Burguesa Celebrates Diez y Seis
With All-American Fave

As The New York Times reported this week, Mexico’s in a dour mood on the eve of its bicentennial: An increasingly brutal drug war has dampened citizens’ enthusiasm for Thursday’s celebration. But nothing’s stopping the party at local Mexican burger chain Burguesa Burger, which plans to roll out two new…

A Mammoth Proposal for a New Theme Concept

Now that the Korean taco thing’s been done to death — except maybe in Dallas — my friend and I were batting around new can’t-miss concepts for food trailers. He’s currently refurbishing a few of them, and plans to roll out at least one soon. (And if I knew anything…

Kent Rathbun Offers Entrepreneurial Advice

Kent Rathbun, who cracked the Neiman-Marcus Christmas catalog this year with a lobster shooter kit, has advice for other restaurateurs looking to turn their signature recipes into retail sensations. “You got to start small, and you got to think in terms of what people can use at home,” Rathbun says…

A Southerner’s Revenge on Unloveable Kudzu

Southerners rue, curse and unhappily abide kudzu, but few of them ever eat it. The Internet’s awash in recipes for steamed kudzu leaves and powdered kudzu root starch, yet most folks who live where the Japanese vine’s transformed once-recognizable landscapes into undulating humps of green would no sooner cook up…

Texas Hill Country Cooking Takes Manhattan, Sort Of

Hill Country, the wildly popular New York City barbecue joint that’s been busily indoctrinating Yankees in the ways of traditional Texas ‘cue, is now garnering attention for a dish of less certain provenance. As Grub Street recently reported, the menu at Hill Country Chicken — an homage to buttermilk-fried chicken…

100 Favorite Dishes: Emapanadas
At La Carreta Argentina

As a countdown to the Dallas Observer’s “Best of Dallas” 2010, City of Ate is serving up 100 of the favorite dishes we crave, savor and hope to scarf down again soon. These dishes are in no particular order. Some are little known, others celebrated. Some are pricey, others can…

Molly Maguire’s: Good For The Hangover,
Bad For The Wallet

Photos by Andrea Grimes and Man O’ The HourMolly’s Mary.​One expects that when one travels cross-counties to spend a Friday evening at North Texas’ finest honky-tonk, where $5 pitchers of Coors Light are on offer all day every day, one will wake up the next morning in need of some…

Chefs Under Fire D/FW: Viva La Raza,
Iron Chef-style

“That’s what it’s about. That’s what we do. We represent,” said chef Joey Guzman of Northwood Club, when asked about the significance of three Latino finalists in the Chefs Under Fire D/FW semifinal at Milestone Culinary Center, an the event to which City of Ate was invited. The other two…

Huzzah! Renaissance Festival Recommends Healthier Fare

An event designed to celebrate tightly corseted wenches and bloodthirsty jousters isn’t exactly synonymous with restraint, but organizers of this year’s Texas Renaissance Festival are promoting the fair’s healthy snacks. The festival, billed as the nation’s largest, hasn’t leached all the fat and calories from its standard food line-up: Concessionaires…

Gail Simmons Sees How the Cookies Crumble on Top Chef Just Desserts

The Emmy-winning and highly rated Top Chef franchise on Bravo puts the icing on its cake with this week’s debut of Top Chef: Just Desserts (10 p.m., Wednesday, September 15, then moving to its regular slot at 9 p.m. the following week). Hosting the competition among 12 top-flight pastry chefs…