Just last week the Burning Question crew stumbled upon a major scientific discovery. We noticed that as Americans become more selective in their choice of cuisine, they lose their ability to discern skill in, say, leadership and moral stature. Once upon a time, people went out for “Chinese” food–which back…
Saltimbocca’s! is billed as a bistro. A bistro is a small cafe, usually serving down-to-earth food and wine. But let’s look a little further: The Food Lover’s Companion says the word is also deployed to describe a small nightclub (the French bistrot means pub). Let’s scan the place. The main…
Everyone who plunks down a significant amount of change to open a bar or club wrestles with this week’s question. Popularity means sales, which translate into success. And success…well, we had to look it up, but it sounds worthwhile. Yet according to our American Heritage dictionary, achieving success is never…
L’Ancestral is an icon, a dignified one. It’s among the first slices of French to braise its way onto the Dallas landscape without the excessive continental puffery. An elderly man sits alone at one table, his back against the wall. He wears a coat and tie. His shirt is tucked…
I’ve been to the Ritz. The Ritz was a hangout of mine. And diner, you’re no…So Ritzy’s is back. You remember Ritzy’s, don’t you? Of course you don’t. It’s been wounded and moaning for more than a decade (and it’s horses they shoot?). But in the early 1980s, back when…
Let’s set the scene, because this particular incident took place about 10 years ago. We were running a bit late, our timetable disrupted by a few extra drinks “accidentally” ordered by a member of the crew not yet known by the Burning Question moniker. Meanwhile, a female friend waited for…
The best way to beat the Dallas restaurant smoking ban is to pay homage to it with bricks and mortar. Build yourself a smoking bunker; seal if off from the rest of the dining guests. Make sure those prone to long stints in nicotine fog pass from bunker to restaurant…
Chefs and restaurant owners often whine about those paid to critique their establishments, contending that reviewers should have some kitchen experience before they ever start writing. Of course, we suspect very few chefs stun-gunned cattle at a slaughterhouse prior to a career grilling steak. Fortunately, the Burning Question crew can…
Maybe the prognosticators were right, those who said the next great wave in restaurant trends is Indian fast food. This is counterintuitive on its face. Indian cuisine is by nature complex, a jet stream of reverent aromas that blast the mind into reflection in a way a sub with provolone…
Joseph Gutierrez likes doubles, or so it seems. After all, he earned his big “D” fame as chef at the helm of Voltaire before it went Bamboo Bamboo before it went bust. Then he opened Rouge. Now Gutierrez is taking over the Watel’s space (Watel’s shuttled over to Allen Street)…
Thousands of restaurants and bars in this city vie for attention from a small number of media outlets and journalists. Now throw in the PR types, paid to spread the word about this event or that new drink…or to insist that it’s normal for guests to experience searing stomach cramps…
Paradise means different things to different people. To some, it might mean grains of white sand speckling the lime slices in your umbrella beverage. To others, it might be a 38D casting shadows over your Bud Light. To a select few, it might mean drinking expensive gin from a Ferrari…
Think of Little Katana as the Dallas version of a city hot-dog cart. You’ve seen them in some urban locales: steam tables on wheels with potato chip sacks clipped to a riser; beverage bottles displayed in a row just above the bin where franks and sausages swelter in caged clouds…
Figaro Café was Le Paris Bistrot for several years. It tanked. Owner Jean Michel Sakouhi blames it on the freedom fries syndrome: the point in time after the start of the Iraq war when the French were getting drunk on anti-American condescension and Americans were pouring Bordeaux down the bidet…
Some whisperers contend the Dallas restaurant business is bracing for a couple of body blows. First, there’s Delta Airlines pulling out of its Dallas hub. “They’re not thrilled about it,” says Tracey Evers, executive director of the Greater Dallas Restaurant Association (the restaurateurs, she means). “Those people eat out a…
Those old enough probably remember Mutual of Omaha’s Wild Kingdom, a popular television series in which the hosts tracked hungry beasts roaming the savannah or crept up on skittish prey. Well, consider the Burning Question crew literary heirs to Marlin Perkins and Jim Fowler. Over the past few weeks we’ve…
Water. Maybe it’s a myth that the secret to great pizza is water. Dallas has notoriously bad water. It’s so hard you could break your nose splashing handfuls of it into your face in the morning, which means it’s better at waking you up than making your pizza rock. There…
Dallas restaurant publications come and go with the regularity of…well, regularity. Dining Book, Dallas Food & Wine Journal, Vine Dallas–there are probably others. Wait a minute; didn’t The Dallas Morning News once have a quarterly insert magazine called Wine & Food that disappeared really Quick? See how fast the go…
William Guthrie is a collector: books, utensils, antiques, family photographs. Much of his trove peppers his restaurant, Guthrie’s. Guthrie says he has more than 1,500 hardback cookbooks, a collection of tomes that dates all the way to 1796 and one from which he pulls recipes. He also keeps old recipes…
Steak drives men to ramble. Specifics? Monte Morris. Before Tristan Simon and his merry band of Consolidated Restaurant operators lured him to run Cool River Café in Las Colinas, Morris was burrowed in a steak house up in Denver. Then Simon broke from Cool River to launch Cuba Libre, bringing…
Sometimes, after we’ve called in sick with a strange “stomach virus,” we spend the day testing Bloody Mary recipes and watching cooking shows. According to television, chefs spend their days sipping wine with Andrea Immer on some ocean-side deck, fishing for rainbow trout in a roaring mountain stream, roaming Tuscan…
What’s astounding about the Gaylord Texan Resort is this: no bugs. Not a single gnat, fly, ant, earwig or pill bug milling about the stone terraces or burrowing in the dirt. And there is plenty of dirt. The center node of the Gaylord is one gigantic terrarium with uncountable varieties…
