Taqueria Cañonita’s publicity propaganda makes a lot of the fact that this superstar taqueria was hatched by Dallas star chef Stephan Pyles and his younger sister Alena. The blurbs tell how the pair developed the restaurant over the course of 10 or so years during many trips to Mexico, where…
Gilbert Garza starts his day at Suze by clipping a wireless phone to his belt. He then slips on a lightweight headset–the kind that doesn’t disturb your hair–complete with mouthpiece. He looks vaguely like Tom Hanks in Apollo 13, if Hanks were a chef preparing for another 14-hour day. All…
If nothing else, Rear Window is a view or, rather, a collection of little views tucked away in portals wrought into the interior architecture. The effect is handsome, cozy, plush, and off-center. Rear Window is neatly divided into two sections–restaurant and bar–separated by a wood-paneled wall harboring a number of…
What does a daringly beautiful and sleek lounge do when it wants to evolve beyond watering-hole food? It sautés quail. We ordered Zúbar’s sautéed quail with new potatoes and asparagus, and we threw the kitchen off its footing. The chef made an emergency visit to our table and explained the…
Just like that, the steak and the sizzle have been plucked off McKinney Avenue. Angelo & Maxie’s Steakhouse, a Manhattan-based red-beef meat market roping 24- to 35-year-olds with the ploy that you’re “never 2 hip” to tuck into a 24-ounce T-bone, has canceled plans to go into Chateau Plaza in…
A busy night at the Flying Saucer in Addison often forces patrons to park across the street and risk their lives in a mad dash across Montfort. Laura’s Last Chance in North Dallas provides revelers with a stunning view from its outdoor patio of an apartment complex’s drab backside. Hooter’s…
Upon leaving the White House way back when, President Eisenhower cautioned against the power of the military-industrial complex. Perhaps the old guy should have warned us about the processed food industry as well. From Spam to hot dogs to pre-mixed peanut butter and jelly to Velveeta, we’ve managed to perfect…
It’s difficult to decide what to like best about Big Buck Brewery & Steakhouse. Is it the 360-degree jet-black audio speakers that look like charred beehives hanging from the ceiling? Or is it the Big Buck urinals? The latter, a steakhouse innovation soon to be copied in every segment of…
It appears Bosque Café, the restaurant composed in the arts district by longtime restaurateur Edgar Watson, has closed after its doors had been open for just a week. Watson, who launched a small string of restaurants in the Dallas area over the years including Adriano’s in the Quadrangle (where Dream…
Long before the advent of forks, spoons, ladles, and other eating utensils, humankind skewered meat on sharpened sticks. It remains one of our most basic instincts–to jab at food with a pointed object in a symbolic form of savagery. Yes, underneath the genteel façade of manners, etiquette, and sophistication rests…
Europeans often scoff at America’s apparent lack of unique tradition, especially around the holidays. Fruitcake, eggnog, and ham, for example, are all Christmas staples borrowed from the Old World. And turducken belongs to Louisiana alone. Historians tell us that America’s early settlers braved the treacherous Atlantic crossing to escape tyranny,…
Ten minutes since arrival. Chips. We are swimming in chips. Two large baskets. And it’s taken 10 minutes to get these. They are crisp, well salted, and without that pubescent facial sheen that makes you feel as though you’re about to eat scraps of Southwestern-style no-wax flooring. Each basket is…
When we get hold of a good word, we like to run it into the ground. Especially when it makes us appear smarter than our associate degree in kitchen physics would imply. But not everybody feels this way, especially longtime Dallas chef Avner Samuel, who is now at Bistro A…
Americans have always had problems with the old question of image vs. reality. For example, hard-partying George W. Bush represents good old-fashioned morality while former seminary student Al Gore suffers on issues of trust. People buy Saturns because of the savings gained from one-price buying, but end up paying 26…
Fruitcakes are crucial to Western civilization. They’ve been around since Roman times–perhaps the same fruitcake–when Russell Crowe and his ilk feasted on a mix of pomegranate, pine nuts, and raisins mixed into a barley-mash batter. No wonder the ancients developed vomitoriums. The English perfected fruitcakes in the Middle Ages and…
One good thing about The Ranch House is that if it weren’t for Interstate 30 just a few yards away and Lake Ray Hubbard (which is really just a gully with big hips) nearby, you’d think you really were on a ranch. And I’m not necessarily talking about the décor,…
Whit Meyers says the last thing he wanted was a shiny new penny, and he didn’t get it. Jeroboam, the new dining spot he and his partners in the Entertainment Collaborative developed in the Kirby Building, is a little clumsy, a bold portrayal of frays. Yet this is perhaps the…
He created the defunct Italian restaurant chain Sfuzzi. He and Phil Romano founded Nick & Sam’s, though now he’s divorced from the project. Today, Patrick Colombo is in the predictable swamp of construction delays with his pair of projects slated for the upcoming West Village project at Lemmon and McKinney…
It’s cold on the Sunday before Thanksgiving, but it’s sunny. It’s only a few days before the holiday season kicks in for real, before the busiest travel weekend chokes the freeways and confounds Dallas/Fort Worth International Airport, before retailers grin and brace themselves for the certain onslaught of prosperity-induced holiday…
This time of year was hog-killing time in the old South. Back in the days before air conditioning, Prada, dentistry, and good taste forever altered the Southern states and their cherished heritage, families gathered every November to butcher a few hogs and lay up meat for the year. They smoked…
Frankie’s Sports Bar and Grill is a typical picture-tube-studded suds dispenser with a pool table, a smattering of video games, a few gruff bartenders, and a rec-room-like atmosphere with a sunken dining area. What isn’t so typical about this sports bar is that it has valet service (which is just…
I’m assuming the thing that is so thrilling about opening a Mongolian grill is that it’s dirt cheap to operate and has fat margins. There’s a specified roster of ingredients to stock and prep, labor is limited to drink-fetchers, a busboy, and a spatula swashbuckler who hovers over a griddle…
