Wrapped Up In Chains

Parkland Memorial Hospital in Dallas operates a level-one trauma center, a violence intervention program, a palliative care department–and a McDonald’s. Shoppers at Super Target can pick up kitchen appliances, toys and a Personal Pan Pizza from Pizza Hut. Forget where you parked your car? No problem. The Foley’s parking garage…

Chinese Cookie Torture

For some reason we always think the Chinese hold the key to success, happiness and all of life’s little secrets. For example, we’re suddenly a nation of feng shui devotees who believe–quite seriously–that the proper alignment of décor leads to wealth or serenity. Geez. How much does a country of…

Cheesy Lulu

Maybe finding restaurant space in Dallas isn’t as hard as it used to be. Or maybe things are worse than we think. After just a few short weeks of scouring, Texadelphia President Brian Mitts says he’s found a new home for the original Philly steak sandwich shop he and his…

Hurricane Warning

“Some individuals may have an allergic reaction to shellfish,” the Hurricane Grill menu warns. “The Hurricane is not responsible.” So puff up, blister, itch and swallow your medicine. But is the Hurricane responsible for the hurricane? Hurricanes are terrifyingly furtive beverages, unleashing their rum pestilence long after you’ve lost count…

Steak Rubble

Amie Bergess says the structure destined to be her new restaurant looks like a big skylight. She’s being generous. The former Ruggeri’s location on Routh Street looks more like a bombing ruin or maybe a brick Stonehenge. The roof has been shorn off. All of the walls have been ripped…

Tippling Tips

We tend to define human progress in terms of personal wealth or the amount of open space bulldozed by developers. But a mere glance at history texts reveals at every turn some unknown feature rearing up to stall the advancement of our species–the mysteries of fire, disease or grade inflation,…

The Whole Boot

That spot on McKinney Avenue and Monticello, the one that sizzled and popped with Dallas couture before someone pulled the plug on the glitterati frier, the one that elevated chef Gilbert Garza to prominence before he stepped down and escaped to a little neighborhood spot called Suze, has risen from…

Love Bites

Laura Raymond disagrees with the conclusion of this article. “Lunch dates are for wussies,” she explains. “If you really like someone, take her out at night, have a few drinks and have fun.” Married now, Raymond speaks bluntly about past lunch dates. Sure, a traditional date puts certain pressure on…

Second Coming

Patrick Esquerré compares himself to God. Not in a megalomaniacal way but in an almost self-deprecating sense. Back in 1983, Esquerré successfully took an idea for a French bakery and café and multiplied it into more than 60 offspring sloughing off revenues topping $100 million. That first Le Madeleine was…

Buffalo Takes Wing

Just when you thought it was safe to raise your cholesterol level without the simultaneous blare of baseball, volleyball and extreme wrestling from 30-plus TVs, along comes Cape Buffalo. Cape Buffalo is diversionary neurosis expressed in building materials and electronics–a multiuse venue with live music Friday and Saturday nights, billiard…

Double Vision

Arcodoro & Pomodoro is really little more than a Sardinian set of Siamese twins that provides elegant fine dining and casual but lustful meat-picking with pizza under one valet awning. Yet this genetic aberration’s dual personalities are as striking as they are similar. Everything on the menu is available in…

Decisions, Decisions

The human brain is an amazing thing. It can conceive pyramids, space travel and the Popeil Pocket Fisherman. But when the brain confronts the menu board at ice cream shops, synapses break apart, neurons scatter in chaos, and all functions cease. We stand gaping, unable to pick from the listed…

Bonny Dude

It is well known that Bonny Doon Vineyard founder Randall Grahm has an uncommon approach to wine. To say that he marches to a different drummer is grossly short of the mark. Grahm marches to a Martian linguist employing smoke signals. While typical wine prattle includes descriptors like “delicate hints…

Go West for Wine

Sapristi! is Italian slang for surprise, or something like that. But what surprised me at this bistro and wine bar were the posters hanging on the wall. “They’re lithographs of the originals,” a manager said. And they don’t have much to do with bistro culture, at least not as far…

Sleeps with the Fishes

Soprano’s, that “AmerItalian” restaurant that Bruce Kaminski opened in February 2000 in Frisco in the former Gulf Coast Seafood & Steaks space with the help of galloping chef Marc Haines (of Fish, Cuba Libre, Sipango, North-South, etc.), was locked up April 24. Kaminski, owner of Longshots sports bar in Addison,…

Din-din

On a Saturday evening at Green Papaya, glasses clink together and occasionally shatter. Doors creak open, allowing the sharp banter of pots and pans to spill from the kitchen. Voices blend into a consistent buzz, pierced by a bit of laughter here and there. Forks scrape, waiters call out, and…

City Slick

City Café is one of those Dallas institutions that is perpetually in danger of laurel-resting, of desperately clinging to the vigor for which it was known in an earlier time. Back then, its reputation was established simply by serving up new American cuisine with the edges tweaked just a bit,…

Nick Gets Fired Up

When Phil Romano’s pick-up-joint-disguised-as-a-French Luby’s (also known as We Oui) went the way of all fleshpots, the supposition was that Romano would send his We Oui chef Nick Badovinus on an all-expenses paid recipe-collecting world vacation and then open a restaurant in the young chef’s name. But it’s not to…

Soul Survivor

Sometimes comparisons just don’t work. For example, New Englanders speak with grating accents just like Southerners. They contributed sports, literature, education and rebellion to the annals of American culture–again, just like the Old South. Of course, New England’s literary greats–Thoreau, Emerson and the like–overshadow Faulkner and his Yaknapa-something County or…

Trite Tongue

Puffs of acrid smoke plume from Teppo’s yakatori grill, a narrow metal cookery box covered with a bent and loose mesh grate. If you’re seated at the sushi bar near the grill, you get to watch the chef brush a diverse assortment of skewered animal parts with sauce and turn…

Food to Go

Ah, the glamorous life of a Dallas chef: the long hours, the stifling kitchens, the wicked pace of dinner rush, the competition. At least they get to wear cool outfits. In addition, every chef knows that in order to maintain the status of their restaurant, attract new customers or keep…

Chilled Venus

After more than a year of chasing investors around Dallas with fresh fish ideas, lauded ex-Fish chef Chris Svalesen has finally landed. On Venus. Svalesen plans to dramatically transform Shelly Dowdy’s “swank” Venus Steak House and Supper Club on Lemmon Avenue, shuttered earlier this year, into a seafood restaurant. Work…