Hash Over

Okianos goes SoHo Opening this past weekend, Okianos, the Mediterranean seafood restaurant on Belt Line Road in Addison, emerged as SoHo Food, Drink & Jazz following extensive remodeling begun in early October. Chris Finch, former sous chef of Chamberlain’s Prime Chop House, has gripped SoHo’s kitchen helm, creating a mid-…

Thai one on

Living in Dallas, among shiny mirrored buildings, burgeoning mutual funds, and low unemployment, it’s easy to lose global perspective. The economy is acutely robust. There’s a Nordstrom going into NorthPark. The Cowboys didn’t do so hot, but there’s a new arena being built on the Dallas urban plain. Yet in…

Hash Over

Stinky stogie? There’s something funny going on at Lone Wolf, Chuck Norris’ and Dennis Overstreet’s restaurant and cigar and wine bar that appears to have been shuttered permanently. A rumor was circulating in late November that Lone Wolf was set to shut down by the first of the year. Then…

Bare-knuckle steak

Just by their numbers and consistent rosters, steakhouses have inevitably become orgies of predictability. Everything is so much the same. No surprises. No skyscraper food threatening to puncture your chin. No bizarre sea creatures dressed in mango caviar hiding in the watercress. Wine lists are hefty enough to crush a…

Let ’em eat loin

Don’t let your meat loaf Eating healthy is hazardous to your well-being. I can prove it. In the fall issue of American Outlook, writer Dennis Avery explains the inherent risks of poisoning your body with too much health consciousness. According to data compiled by the U.S. Centers for Disease Control…

Rough edges

On my first visit to Moonshine Cafe, the fine-dining divot below The Palace nightclub off Lower Greenville, my thoughts didn’t coagulate around the “New Creole” menu. Or the New Orleans street-scene mural smeared on the rear wall with real windows sculpted into the artwork offering a view of the kitchen…

Hash Over

Bull rider Lisa Balliet, opening executive chef of Stephan Pyles’ AquaKnox before her sudden departure early last year, has turned up in Lakewood to undertake a new project: the transformation of The Cock & Bull. She’ll partner with Cock & Bull owner Noel Graham and sublease the kitchen to create…

Hash Over

Star shuffle Star Concepts–the group Carlson Restaurants Worldwide created to absorb Star Canyon and AquaKnox after the T.G.I. Friday’s parent (presumably) gave owners Stephan Pyles, Michael Cox, and TCBY Enterprises President Herren Hickingbotham enough money to choke a herd of Texas steers–announced several position changes last week. Star Canyon Executive…

Swimming raw in Cowtown

Pangaea has a beautiful fish tank lodged in one wall. Crowds of orange, purple, and striped cichlids (perchlike freshwater fish found in South America, Africa, Sri Lanka, and India) swim among the plants and reddish rocks. They look like submerged Carroll Shelby hot rods: low-slung and flat with large mouths…

Hash Over

Carrollton lights up Barely two weeks after the Dallas Environmental Health Commission held hearings exploring whether Dallas should toughen its relatively permissive public-smoking ordinance, the city of Carrollton eased its ban on smoking in public places last week. By a vote of 6-1, the Carrollton City Council approved amendments to…

Pig in a poke

Disturbing news hit the papers the day after Thanksgiving. The hog market collapsed. “Hog Market Collapses on Glut of Animals,” read one headline. “Swine prices at the farm are at their lowest level in 27 years,” said one report. Farmers are shipping a record 2.2 million hogs weekly, stretching slaughterhouses…

Rawhide Italian

There are many reasons to love carpaccio. First, the word rolls off the tongue with such musicality, it’s impossible to avoid a self-satisfied smirk once the final vowel is successfully squeezed through puckered lips. Second, the dish is drenched in simple exuberance–thin slices of raw tenderloin or sirloin carpet the…

Hash Over

Old San Francisco Old San Francisco Steak House, the San Antonio based restaurant chain featuring the “girl in the red velvet swing” where a young woman boards a bar swing every 45 minutes and kicks a pair of cow bells attached to the ceiling, has been snapped up. Almost. A…

Getting to the heart

Dining at Pappas Brothers Steakhouse left a question weighing heavily on my mind: What the hell has happened to cholesterol levels, blood pressure, and red meat phobia? The stench of such concerns doesn’t pollute Pappas’ ambiance. It’s as though it’s been siphoned off by the immaculately efficient ventilation system in…

Hash Over

Restaurant crash? The Wall Street Journal recently reported that stock market fluctuations are sending shivers through the New York restaurant scene. The Big Apple’s dining frequency is in decline, high-end spending growth is flat, and restaurant closings have increased sharply. Will the same fate befall Dallas? According to the Texas…

Mountain of hope

Food isn’t everything. Other elements play a significant role in a successful dining experience. For one, there’s service that delivers clean forks with every course instead of placing the dirty one from your finished plate next to your white shirtsleeve. There’s dining-room music that isn’t Kenny G. There’s friendly valet…

Hash Over

Butt ban? Members of the Dallas Environmental Health Commission put the screws to the restaurant industry late last week, and well they should. During a hearing considering toughened city smoking regulations, representatives of the Greater Dallas Restaurant Association and the Hotel/Motel Association of Greater Dallas asserted that restaurants and bars…

Hash Over

Wolf refugees start anew After bowing out of Lone Wolf Cafe in late October, former Mansion maitre d’ Wayne Broadwell and Sipango partner and founding chef Matthew Antonovich are planning to launch a new upscale restaurant in Dallas. The restaurant will be an American grill with gourmet take-out and fresh…

Big glossies and big platters

I have a theory. The necessary evidence has not yet been assembled to prove it, but the more I dine out, the more the world seems to conform to its basic premise. The theory is this: The quality of a restaurant’s food and service is inversely proportional to the number…

Hash Over

Help wanted After six years as assistant general manager, Scott Shoenberger ended his stint with the Melrose Hotel, home of the Landmark restaurant, last week. He’s off to Hartford, Connecticut, where he will head the 271-room Hastings International Conference Resort, operated by Colorado Springs-based International Conference Resorts. Apparently, Melrose executives…

Rice brewhaha

The Japanese lust for fugu, or puffer fish, is one of the most fascinating yet perplexing obsessions in the culinary universe. It’s served thinly sliced as sashimi or in nabemono, one-pot meals cooked at the table in broth or oil. Yet for all its culinary attraction, fugu, if consumed following…

Of men, meat, and money

A group of men was leaving through the thick, beveled glass doors–large, beef-eating men in casual business attire. They were grunting, jabbing. Several minutes later, one of them returned in an anxious flurry. He approached the hostess. “Oh, yes. Yes, we did find it,” she said, moving over to a…