The Japanese lust for fugu, or puffer fish, is one of the most fascinating yet perplexing obsessions in the culinary universe. It’s served thinly sliced as sashimi or in nabemono, one-pot meals cooked at the table in broth or oil. Yet for all its culinary attraction, fugu, if consumed following…
A group of men was leaving through the thick, beveled glass doors–large, beef-eating men in casual business attire. They were grunting, jabbing. Several minutes later, one of them returned in an anxious flurry. He approached the hostess. “Oh, yes. Yes, we did find it,” she said, moving over to a…
Wamstad’s big beef If you think III Forks owner Dale Wamstad–and his 257-year-old alter ego, Capt. Bob Cooper–is a little off his T-bone, you may be right. Apparently incensed at the steak-house ad Richard Chamberlain of Chamberlain’s ran last week in The Dallas Morning News, Wamstad responded with his own…
Antonovich does Lone Wolf Former III Forks chef Matthew Antonovich, a.k.a. Chisholm, has just completed the new menu for Lone Wolf Cafe, an American grill with continental touches. Set to open at the end of October, the cafe will feature a $4 million wine cellar assembled by new Lone Wolf…
As an example of “fine dining in an upscale, yet comfortable and inviting atmosphere,” as the press release describes it, The Winds Bistro is a noble stab. Its chief instigators–Tom Whittaker, former manager of the original Rusty Pelican in Orange County, California, and chef Bruce Stein, formerly of The Cock…
Doolittle’s does less Doolittle’s, the Addison eatery and Martini hole spawned last year by Deep Ellum Cafe partners Mike Sakuta and Patrick Davis, has been shaken, stirred, and shuttered. Longview-based Restaurant Teams International, Inc. (formerly Fresh’n Lite, Inc.) has a deal in the works to turn the space into Street…
There are at least five indicators that tell you a new restaurant is not just another place to eat, but a major seismic event: 1) you need a reservation to get in on a Monday night; 2) every Mercedes in the parking lot has a model number of 500 or…
!Fabulosa!, the new restaurant in the festive Centrum spot that was once Jungle Red, seems little more than an attempt to rescue its predecessor’s decor from the scrap heap. As Jungle Red, this heavily windowed corner possessed a beached menu and bold, taste-be-damned decorative touches. Virtually every one of them…
Nuevo Leon hits Oak Lawn Slipping into the Oak Lawn space that was most recently an offshoot of the Oak Cliff Italian restaurant Vitto, Nuevo Leon owners Luis Ramirez and David Trevino will open their third location in mid-October, joining the “Mex-Mex” restaurant’s outlets on Lower Greenville Avenue and in…
In one sense, Dragonfly Bar & Restaurant perfectly mimics its namesake. Like the insect, this lower Greenville haunt darts, ascends, turns sharply, stops on a dime, and drop-shifts into reverse as it travels a number of directions all in one flight plan. Is it a hip music venue? Is it…
Barking up the wrong stogie? Lone Wolf Lounge General Manager Bill Valentine, onetime general manager of 8.0 and Sambuca Restaurant in Deep Ellum, recently left the cigar bar and restaurant in disgust. He says that after several months of indecisiveness among the restaurant’s partners, who include actor Chuck Norris, the…
Deli news Asher Investments, the partnership behind the successful Bistro A in Snider Plaza, is poised to launch a sandwich shop across the street from the restaurant in a former uniform service warehouse. Bistro A consulting chef Avner Samuel will oversee the deli’s food operations. Serving New York-style corned beef,…
Nana Grill, the aging eatery perched atop the Wyndham Anatole, has a new chef: 25-year-old Doug Brown, a Culinary Institute of America grad and veteran of such spots as Mark’s Place in Miami, venue of celebrated chef Mark Militello. A sous chef at Nana two years ago, Brown returned as…
Greiser exits Gershwin’s Lauded chef George Greiser cut loose from Gershwin’s Bar & Grill last Friday to pursue an ambitious project in Austin dubbed Jake’s. Plunked on the shores of Lake Austin in the former Lake View Lodge, Jake’s combines casual American fare with a sushi bar and an upscale…
Tei Tei Robata bar drives home the point that virtually anything constructed from the building blocks of life can be used as food. It’s squeamishness that prevents many worthy nutritious forms of biochemistry from becoming staples on the TV dinner tray. (How many times have you heard that earthworms are…
Stone crabs are colorful, hard-shelled beasts that come in precious Southwestern hues. The meat, though more fibrous and less delicate than that of other crab species, is sweet and rich. But there is another vitally important aspect to the stone crab. In theory, vegans can consume this animal flesh without…
Fairmont ponders Brasserie fate Though some conclude its demise is all but inevitable, Fairmont Hotel management dances when asked to confirm the Brasserie’s rumored closing. “[The rumor] is not currently accurate,” says Fairmont’s director of food and beverage, Roger Hyde. “Though it is part of our current conversation.” Roughly two…
It doesn’t take more than a taste to realize that Indian cuisine is saturated with complexity and inspiration. So saturated that, until recently, many chefs have avoided its volatile mysteries. Michael Romano, executive chef of the Union Square Cafe in New York, says using Indian spices is akin to learning…
Mysterious new venture Though he won’t disclose its location, ex-dani Foods Executive Chef Kent Rathbun says he, businessman Robert Hoffman, and award-winning chef George Brown–his former dani cohorts–have settled on a location for their new restaurant, tentatively set to open in May or June 1999. Rathbun adds that design work…
Texadelphia to blanket Texas Texadelphia operator Tom Landis says he has secured the rights to expand the Philly cheese-steak sandwich restaurant throughout the Lone Star state. In an agreement reached with Texadelphia founder and Philadelphia native Joel Stanley, who operates two of the restaurants in Austin, Landis and his partners,…
Jaco Pastorius, the late fretless electric bass player who revolutionized the instrument in the late ’70s with the jazz ensemble Weather Report, once said that good musicians borrow ideas. Geniuses steal them. Pastorius left little doubt as to his own genius. Incorporating sweeping melodic grooves, chords, harmonics, and percussive effects…
Star Canyon to hit Vegas Dallas kitsch meets the paradigm of taste. Star Concepts Vice President Michael Cox says Star Canyon and the company’s developing taqueria restaurant will open in Las Vegas’ new Venetian Hotel–a re-creation of Venice–when the hotel development is completed next April. Star Canyon will be located…
