Seafood is brain food” says the motto on the menu at Fish Express. Given the name of the place, an expectation of good fish served quickly would seem to be a no-brainer. Here, however, they have adopted the Amtrak model of “express.” Place an order at the walk-up counter on…
Grace Jones’ voice spills from the lounge and hovers over the table. These are the hazards of placing a loft lounge over your dining room. The rhythms of one hijack the cadence of the other, stirring up discordant stew. On another occasion it was even more explicit. Thumps from the…
What about the dinosaurs? This is often the question posed when science wrestles with God, when empirical evidence scrums with Scripture. The big bones are clearly in the ground, but Tyrannosaurus Rex is absent from the Bible—a huge reptilian omission for a book with a reptile clearly playing a starring…
Beau’s is like a temporarily rearranged living room, the kind you’d disassemble and neatly refit to absorb extras guests. Sure, its setting in a quarter of the Crescent Court lobby is elegant. The glass tables are thick, with an opaque appliqué on the bottom giving them a sandblasted look. There’s…
To say the service and pacing of courses at Le Rendezvous is leisurely is to make them sound too rushed. This newly reopened French place on the southwest corner of Royal Lane at Preston Road adheres to the classic continental style, meaning continents could shift a smidge in the time…
What’s most amazing about Little Katana, the Travis Street edition, isn’t the food, though some of it is astounding. The Asian bouillabaisse for instance, is as orange as a road hazard cone and hot enough to jiggle tonsils (more on this later). No, what’s most amazing is the Little Katana…
Indian cuisine is an unruly knot of temperaments. It’s not easy to tame. It’s even harder to unravel and understand once it is tamed. Take curry. It’s a simple word that has multiple meanings. It’s a fragrant leafy herb. It’s a paste composed of clarified butter and powerful spices. It’s…
Gourmands make their graves with their teeth. —French proverb Bijoux is for those who hate food—hate to be away from it, hate it when it’s irresistibly beautiful, hate the poisons it sends coursing through the veins, hate the scourge of its addiction and, most of all, hate themselves for loving…
Hearing that Deep Ellum Café is back in business in its original location at 2706 Elm St. is like finding out that a good old friend has moved back to the neighborhood. This was one of our favorite haunts in the late 1980s, back when Deep Ellum was coming into…
Behind the Geisha Steak and Sushi Lounge sushi bar is a sushi clock: ticktock, ticktock. Shrimp is two, octopus is three, salmon eggs (ikura) are five and so on. Behind the Geisha lounge bar are high-definition flat screens. The first quarter unwinds: ticktock, ticktock. “I’d be better if the Cowboys…
Hotel Lumen bills itself as an enlightened hotel. It “illuminates its sophisticated setting” with “light-themed” artwork and a “vibrant retro feel.” Enlightened. Illuminates. Lumen. A pattern blooms. Suddenly, a contrarian element cuts through the glow racket. Social, the “swanky” restaurant tucked in the bowels of the enlightened Lumen, is dark…
We would like CHIC from Barcelona to become a welcoming oasis in Dallas. We want people to think of Chic when they think of Barcelona. We want people to think of Barcelona when they think of CHIC. Thus reads the Chic from Barcelona “vision” statement, a piece of circular thinking…
They’re relics: Stephan Pyles’ bone-in cowboy rib eye and Dean Fearing’s lobster tacos. They cling to evolving menus like vestiges from a bygone era when Texas mattered. Southwestern cuisine is dead. It went out with a wheezy whimper. The city’s SW power trio—Dean Fearing, Stephan Pyles and Avner Samuel—who were…
hither the chef-driven restaurant, the stand-alone room blossoming from a former dry cleaner or sports bar or neighborhood pharmacy? It’s a declining species, the small room crowded with tables and stone accents and a chef in pressed whites leaning at the edge of the open kitchen, wiping plates and arranging…
By the turn of the 20th century, the Irish saloon began to take on a mainstream role in American cities. As the great potato famine in Ireland in 1845 forced many to migrate to the States, the traditions and lifestyle of the group came with [them]. —BlackFinn Restaurant & Saloon…
Chophouse boilerplate is as follows: plush fabrics, the iceberg wedge, jewel case wine rooms cuddling cult Cabernets and pompous Bordeaux, the double-cut pork chop, magnums and jeroboams assembled in decorative huddles in banquet nooks, acres of paneling and shiny brass chandeliers and sconces set to simulate flickering candles. Servers wear…
Use of the “royal” in Asian restaurant titles is rampant: Royal China Restaurant, Royal Chinese Restaurant and Royal Thai in Dallas, plus Royal East Asian Cuisine in Denton. Add to that list Royal Chopstix, five of them (a sixth on Parker Road in Plano was cut down earlier this year)…
In the thick of country pitch-black, it’s hard to perceive the grandeur of Four Winds Steakhouse scenery. The night constricts everything to the narrow cone of headlights. The long, twisty pavement ribbon off of FM 47, wood fencing on its flanks, unravels just a few feet at a time. A…
First, a rat. Next, a load of bullshit. Can’t wait to see what McDonald’s serves up for Thanksgiving. See, Chrissy Haley isn’t suing the Southlake McDonald’s and its corporate parent for $1.7 million just because she and her nanny found a dead rat in her Bacon Ranch Salad last summer…
Meditate. Live purely. Be quiet. Do your work, with mastery. Buddha said that. Shinsei borrowed it. This isn’t surprising. All manner of restaurants and nightclubs have borrowed Buddhist trappings to dropkick hipness into the vibe, which there isn’t very much of in Buddhism save for silence and the occasional “om.”…
Grill on the Alley is a New American sucker punch; a dining blitzkrieg, albeit one leavened with polished elegance if you don’t count the cheeseburger. And even that is shaped from certified Angus beef and has earned a “classic” designation. The Grill is a New American temple outfitted in an…
Yutaka is nothing if not a hole in the wall—a postmodern orifice at that. Bored out of a strip mall just north of the Hard Rock Café on McKinney Avenue, Yutaka has massive floor-to-ceiling pipes with huge bolts secured to fittings with large nuts. The pipes crowd out the cash…
