Breaking all the rules

So, what do you think they teach them over in the business school at Southern Methodist University–if they’re not going to work for dad’s law firm when they graduate, I mean? I can’t help wondering, because we just met this guy, Scott King, who graduated, went into real estate, and…

The civilized meal

I wondered, last week as I explored the eponymous cafes of Addison and Highland Park, whether I would find in them any essential “Addison-ness” or “Park-iness,” some quality that linked the places with their food and towns. This week found me at Plano Cafe (or rather, I found Plano Cafe…

Hot Dish

One of the noteworthy features of John Kenyon’s new bad-boy Red Jacket Nightclub is the mezcal boutique in the bar. Mezcal, the cactus-based liquor from Oaxaca, has always been a bad-ass drink: harsh going down, hallucinatory in its effects. As if to prove what a bottom-of-the-barrel drink it was, there…

Bread and circus

“You’d better get on down here,” my friend said, calling from her cell phone. “It’s a real pop festival.” She was talking about Eatzi’s, the new store with the ridiculously bad name we’ve all been watching and waiting for on Oak Lawn. Everyone knows Eatzi’s is a new Brinker “concept,”…

Hot Dish

On a recent Thursday night, we enjoyed a glass of wine, a cup of soup, and a delicious goat cheese, avocado, and vegetable sandwich on herbed wheat bread while we listened to the Arthur Riddles Jazz Quartet playing oh-so-cool jazz against the gorgeous backdrop of incredible glass flowers created by…

Brave New World

Cafe Highland Park and Addison Cafe are siblings, but it’s another kind of cafe society out in Addison whose cafe is subtitled “Le French Bistro.” If Highland Park society has delusions of old New England, Addison is strictly New World in its aspirations, at least as far as you can…

User friendly

It’s my impression that Highland Park is populated largely by people who like to pretend they live in Connecticut and commute to the big city. There’s the perfect little park with its gazebo and ducks (and tennis courts). There’s an old-fashioned annual Fourth of July parade, full of children, Sousa,…

Hot Dish

A lot of people have told me lately that I need to take notice of Dallas Affaires’ cakes, but it’s hard to notice some things until they’re shoved in front of your nose, which is exactly what happened a Super Bowl and birthday party. Two moist, velvety cakes from the…

Hot Dish

These days, you can get strawberries all year long, but there are only a few months out of the year when you can get Girl Scout cookies. The only seasonal food left is now on sale door-to-door, but if you don’t know a Girl Scout, you can wait for the…

Flip-ing out

I was asked recently by a neighbor what standards I use when assessing a restaurant. This is the question that comes right after “what qualifies you to be a critic?” as the top-three most commonly asked. (No. 3 is “How often do you go out to eat?”) If I’m not…

Top pie

More news from the pizza front. Not long after responding professionally to the growly-sounding phone call recommending Al’s (“best pizza in town”), I received another message on my voice mail also sounding like Harvey Keitel with a head cold. “Ya keep eatin’ pizza but you don’t come to Al’s,” the…

Dim memory

Szechuan Pavilion used to be the hottest Chinese restaurant in town. The original place in Preston Center was hip and snappy-looking, with colorful Chinese kites, soft lights, and none of that Chinese kitsch. The Pavilion was fast-paced and stylish and lots of fun with good food. But in the life…

Evolving idiom

I went down to Austin last weekend to waste time and eat Mexican food. That’s only a slight paraphrase of one of my favorite motivating sentences in fiction–the one that starts the whole chain of nonevents in Larry McMurtry’s book, All My Friends Are Going To Be Strangers–a favorite because…

Hot Dish

The Cotes du Coeur fine-wine auction and dinner takes place this year on February 10 at the Hyatt Regency. The event, expected to gross $500,000, was founded in 1992 by a Dallas physician, Dr. James Hillert, a true believer in the heart-health benefits of wine. Wine aristocracy from around the…

Full circle

It’s a culinary Frank Capra script. Call it downright heartwarming. The lovely old house that used to be home to Routh Street Cafe has been through some changes since the famous restaurant closed, as has Russ Hodges, who worked in that stellar kitchen with the first talented team under Stephan…

Hot Dish

It’s Wednesday evening–still almost afternoon–and it’s cold, but the line snakes out the door almost to the street anyway. It will still be there when you’ve finished eating. Inside, the place, though just remodeled, still has the bustling, noisy atmosphere, kitschy murals, and plastic plants of original Tex-Mex palaces. It’s…

Aiming low

How many clues do you need? I’m not saying you can always judge a book by its cover or a restaurant by its appearance: I’ve said many times that the most unassuming little places in the world can turn out world-class cuisine, and the great food writers have turned out…

Hot Dish

Tired of turkey? I bet. Jeans getting a little snug? I bet. That post-holiday stuff-and-puff syndrome means a tired palate and a tight wardrobe. To relieve both, I suggest Natura, especially, from its winter menu, the artichoke lasagna, packed with protein (29 grams), but not with fat (15 grams), full…

Little enough

Tramontana is the kind of new restaurant I love to find. The owner used to work at The Mansion, and though you have to be crazy to open a restaurant in the first place, he is wise enough (and experienced enough) to start small, with a limited menu, and to…

Big food

“The Legend Begins,” says the sign over Stone Trail. Well, it can’t begin if you can’t find it. It wasn’t just me. The guest who was supposed to meet us at Stone Trail (“at the southwest corner of Midway and Belt Line,” as I’d been instructed, with no mention of…

Bread alone

You’ll have to regard this as a sneak preview–a look at an unfinished artwork. The soup kitchen at the Dallas Museum of Art is completely gone, but the old Gallery restaurant is still in the awkward middle of its metamorphosis from ugly duckling to what will certainly be a swan…

Essential Middle Eastern

Every so often a car pulls into the parking lot at the northeast corner of Park Lane and Greenville Avenue, stops, and then slowly leaves. An animator would draw those cars bewildered and dejected, with down-turned front grilles and hunched fenders. The people in those cars are bewildered and dejected…