Restaurants

Manny’s Brisket Taco > Mia’s Brisket Taco

There. I said it. In a city that consistently praises Mia's for offering the greatest brisket tacos (they even get credit for inventing the cheese-laden version), I think it's time to highlight what I think is an ever so slightly better version. Note that the difference is slight. Manny Rios,...
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There. I said it. In a city that consistently praises Mia’s for offering the greatest brisket tacos (they even get credit for inventing the cheese-laden version), I think it’s time to highlight what I think is an ever so slightly better version.

Note that the difference is slight. Manny Rios, the owner of Manny’s Uptown, shares blood with “Mamma Mia” Enriquez — they’re siblings — and a close look at those tacos illuminates those family ties. The beef, gravy and cheese are all very similar. I’d even wager only Mamma Mia herself could pick out the differences on a consistent basis, much like a mother can see the subtle variations in her own identical twins.

But look a little closer and freckles and other subtle variations become apparent.

Check out those pablanos and onions in this picture, lightly kissed with heat. These aren’t the oil-drenched vegetables that grace a Mia’s Brisket taco. No, this veg still has life and snap and crunch. The gravy at Manny’s is similar, but there’s no tiny toss-away cup here. Just outside of the frame, at the top of this picture, is a plated bowl and spoon. It’s a perfect setup for drizzling gravy over tacos, beans, or whatever your cumin-scented heart desires. You get a lot more of it, too.

Try them side by side if you don’t believe me. The difference is subtle, but it’s very real. I ate at Mia’s just a few days before taking the picture above, and Manny’s brisket taco comes out on top.

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