Lauren Drewes Daniels
Audio By Carbonatix
These should be the best of times for box wine, long the province of mostly sweet, corporate-driven plonk in the U.S.
That’s because the world’s grape glut is on at least its fourth year, while worldwide wine consumption is at its lowest level since the early 1960s. Hence, there should be a surfeit of cheap, quality wine begging to be put into boxes to be sold at a discount to relieve the glut and lure wine drinkers back.
That’s possible because a 3-liter box – the size for the best quality wines – is the equivalent of four bottles, which means that a box selling for $20 works out to $5 bottle and even a $30 box is only $7.50 a bottle. Compare that to all of those uninspired $15 bottles posing on store shelves these days. And box wine, thanks to its technology, can last as long as a month after it’s open.
Sadly, this box wine boom hasn’t happened. Look at the wine aisles at a supermarket or the box section of the chains, and most of it is the same old stuff – wine made with poor quality grapes that’s disguised with gimmicky names to hide the lack of quality. And too many of them are sweet, even when they don’t need to be, to cover up the poor quality.
Never fear. I’ve scoured the shops, talked to sommeliers, and pigeonholed retailers to find those producers who have rejected this approach and still offer value and quality. These are some of the best:
Quadrun Red
White and rosé, about $22 for 3 liters ($5.50/bottle)These Spanish blends have impressed no less than Jeffrey Gregory, operating partner for 55 Seventy, the upscale private club. These are used for cooking there, a decided step up from the box plonk so many other restaurants (even
fancy ones) use. The red is almost spicy, while the white is citrusy and the rosé offers tart strawberry. “If I want a glass of wine, this is a really good choice,” he says. “It’s a quality product.”
Available at Spec’s and Central Market (white).
Fred
About $25 for 3 liters ($8.33/bottle) Italian red wines made with the Barbera grape can cost as much as $80, so a top-notch box wine made with the grape is a tremendous bargain. It’s earthy with bright red fruit, and is usually paired with sausages and red sauce. But Paul DiCarlo, the wine impresario at Jimmy’s, suggests chilling it slightly and serving it with Texas barbecue.
Available at Jimmy’s and Pogo’s.
Patience From The Tank Rosé
About $33 for 3 liters ($8.25/bottle)How about an organic French pink wine that puts those celebrity rosé labels to shame? Think summer berry fruit, dry as a bone, and just the thing with socca, the French pancake crepe sort of thing made with chickpea flour – almost as good as summer in Provence.
Available at Pogo’s.
La Vieille Ferme
Red, white and rose, about $22 for 3 liters ($5.50/bottle)Summer weeknight dinners at my house are all about these three French wines, which have offered tremendous value for decades. The white is fruity and almost oily; the red is “rustic,” which means sturdy enough for burgers on the grill; and the rosé is dry and full of red fruit.
Available at Total Wine (rose), Twin/Sigel’s (white, red) and H-E-B (rosé)
