One of the oldest restaurants on the Top 100 — Sevy’s Grill opened in 1997 — is also one of the most old-fashioned. Here, Preston Hollow society types enjoy power lunches and, at dinnertime, spring for shrimp cakes, pork chops and salmon fillets cooked in Tabasco butter. It’s the 1990s ideal of a fine-dining restaurant, but young chef Eric Freidline also wants to nudge his diners into the new century by incorporating local produce and oh-so-gently updating the menu. Listen carefully to the specials on offer, therefore, when your impeccably old-school waiter recites them.

Top pick: The service here is designed to cultivate regulars; the staff, immensely friendly and helpful at every turn, even hand out business cards so you know which waiter to ask for next time.

The downside: The dining room itself hasn’t been updated since the 1990s and feels its age. So does the wine list, which prioritizes Napa and has allowed the growing movement toward lighter, more acidic, less tannin-heavy wines to pass unnoticed.

Fun fact: Follow the restaurant or Freidline on social media to get advance notice of monthly wine dinners, at which the chef gets to test out inventive new recipes and pair them with wines that usually come from prestigious California properties.