The brisket is melt-in-your mouth tender, its flavor rich and smoky, and all you need to say as you approach the counter is "sliced" or "chopped". The lightning-fire hands behind the counter will take care of the rest. The beer is cold and the mugs are huge. Who could ask for more?
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I went on a previous trip to Fort Worth where I hit three places in a day, but against everyone's better advice I ignored Angelo's Bar-B-Que, on the wonderfully named White Settlement Road. On Saturday I put that right. Why couldn't...
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