Progeny of longtime Dallas restaurateur Charlie Venetis, Charlie's Opa! Grill is a rich cacophony of Greek food, sprawling the gamut with deliciously tender lamb chops, flaky spanakopita (a savory pie), juicy grilled chicken, gyros carvings that are lean, rich moussaka (Greek lasagna) and saganaki, thick pie sections of lightly breaded Romano cheese that is deep-fried, placed on a hot metal plate, doused with a shot of vodka that hisses and steams, and then set ablaze. The waiter shouts "Opa!," which must be Greek for "what the hell happened to your eyebrows?"
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At first, veteran restaurateur Charlie Venis says Opa! is the Greek equivalent expression of hee-haw. "Well," he corrects, "what it really means is 'let's enjoy life.' Get excited." The latter is what we did when our server shouted ...
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