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City Hall Bistro

1321 Commerce St.
Dallas, TX 75202
214-651-3686
Critics' Pick
City Hall Bistro +

Alison McLean

Details

  • 7 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 7 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5 p.m.-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
  • Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
  • Full bar
  • Family Style, Takeout
  • Valet Parking
  • Reservations Accepted
The Top 100 Dallas Restaurants, No. 48: In summer 2017, City Hall Bistro opened and nearly sank like a rock under the weight of its attempt to capture nearly every trend in the food world. With no head chef at the helm, the Adolphus Hotel’s elegant-casual restaurant tried to be all things to all Instagrammers, with uni, paella, squid ink pasta, Lebanese duck pancakes and a few too many shaved truffles. Chef Jeramie Robison has proved a stabilizing influence, calming the waters and paring the menu down to a small selection of simple, cleanly made Mediterranean dishes. The wine list is equally approachable and equally focused on southern European delights. City Hall may not blow anyone away, but it’s a very satisfying restaurant — and, thanks to its location in the far back corner of a hotel lobby, it rarely gets too busy.

Top pick: The farro salad nicely illustrates the kitchen’s ethos of doing things simply but right: Add a creamy feta dressing and some veggies, then toss in crispy roasted chickpeas to make sure the texture isn’t gloopy. The brunch menu is especially good, too — and yes, $16 is a reasonable price for a breakfast sandwich when it’s well-balanced, generously filled with slices of wagyu beef and served alongside a pile of crispy-outside, fluffy-inside potatoes.

The downside: Cooked or candied lemon peels occasionally drop into plates like surprise house guests. Also, the bathroom is quite a long walk back through the hotel lobby bar, and staff like to escort guests because so many diners have gotten lost.

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