It rests in the thick of the backcountry; at the end of a twisty driveway, wood fencing lining its flanks. There's a gazebo, a long porch and a few oaks sulking in the breeze, plus a 15-acre pond filled with bass This is Dallas steak dining as envisioned by Zeus and executed by former Del Frisco's chef Frank Rumoré. Once a ranch house built by former Dallas Cowboys middle linebacker Lee Roy Jordan, Four Winds is a rustic cedar tabernacle with obese shrimp in the cocktails, homemade mozzarella in the caprese and charred steaks that look like hunks of cooled Hawaiian lava flow. Dab that drool. Resting on an 1,100-acre stretch an hour or so out of Dallas, dining here is like a four-hour vacation.
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In the thick of country pitch-black, it's hard to perceive the grandeur of Four Winds Steakhouse scenery. The night constricts everything to the narrow cone of headlights. The long, twisty pavement ribbon off of FM 47, wood fencing ...