Foxyco

Much about Foxyco is unexpected. Its location is unlikely, of course, but so is the clientele. Most surprising of all, the restaurant is pairing light, summery cocktails with a defiantly big-flavored menu of fried appetizers and meaty, char-grilled main courses. At times, the restaurant risks going one novelty too far. The kitchen centerpiece is an Argentinian-style wood-fired grill. The grill, which takes hickory wood and charcoal, has a pulley system to raise and lower the cooking surface. But Foxyco also cooks some items, like a side dish of Yukon potatoes, directly on the coals. That custom-built system helps account for the absolutely dazzling flavor of their flatiron steak. The meat comes with a terrific potato salad that uses whole mustard seeds, parsley and chewy – for once not crispy – nuggets of bacon. The only thing better is a fork-tender beef short rib sitting on a bed of cauliflower puree. It’s a camera-ready dish, and undeniably delicious, with the rich meat accented by horseradish, pickled red onions and an herb salad.