Frida's Tacolandia is decorated with many a Frida Kahlo portrait.Kathy Tran
Frida’s Tacolandia is the vibrant turf of Albertina Martinez and Vianey Sotomayor, who opened this shop in August at the corner of Polk Street and Kiest Boulevard in Oak Cliff. It is also the unofficial realm of artist Frida Kahlo, whose portraits keep watchful eyes over the dining room and adorn the front windows.
The specialty is tacos de cabeza, using the meat from a cow’s head: cachete (cheek), lengua (tongue) and maciza (a mix of leaner cuts). Frida’s has some of the best cachete in town, rich but not so fatty that it turns into a meat puddle. Asking for onions and cilantro on top can produce a bold shower of the herb.
Watch the white dry-erase board for specials like weekend menudo, chile relleno or tamales. We took a dozen pork tamales to go ($13) and enjoyed them, too, especially when drizzled with the tangy salsa de chile japonés.
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Many white American food writers call tacos and other Mexican foods “humble,” but is a cuisine humble if its flavors are brash and bright, its traditions are worn with confidence and its sandwiches are so big they resemble ocean lin...