Isabella's

Loosely steeped in the cuisines of Lombardi, Tuscany and Veneto, Isabella's (and its lounge, Isa) does a worthy job of straddling Italian culinary authenticity with Frisco suburbia fright points (No fresh anchovies here -- yet). Respectable risotto shares space with a wonderful sea bass laced with olive pâté, a tasty Tuscan tenderloin in chianti reduction and a wonderfully conceived tuna tartare draped in herbed chickpea puree that only fails because the tuna is a couple of notches off top-grade. Isabella is a real (Italian!) lady, and the owners (Craig Vaught and Kenyon Price) personify the restaurant with her essence referring to "her doors" and how "she blends" regional culinary influences, as if she were an oil tanker or a destroyer. Let's hope she doesn't sink.