"Fried Jesus," Abel Gonzales, Opens New Restaurant, AG Texican in Dallas

Don’t ask Abel Gonzales about the new A&E documentary Deep Fried Dynasty, in which he has a key role. "Fried Jesus" — as he’s become known after 19 years as a State Fair of Texas vendor — has won the Big Tex Choice Awards (the Oscars of fried food) five times. So, being in the media spotlight isn't new to him, he just doesn’t want to see it.

“I mean it, I can’t see myself,” Gonzales said recently at his new restaurant, AG Texican.

Even if he can’t stand to watch himself on TV, that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t. Deep Fried Dynasty is a fascinating behind-the-fryer glimpse at the money that goes into running a booth at the fair.
Gonzales has a new project that, fortunately, we don’t have to wait until fall to try. His restaurant AG Texican recently opened on Harry Hines Boulevard.

This spot serves breakfast and lunch and is also a catering business. It could perhaps be described as a barbecue restaurant, considering how that term has evolved over the last five years or so. Gonzales is smoking 100% prime USDA briskets, which is an anchor for both the breakfast and lunch menus. For lunch, you can get a brisket plate with a side of beans and potato salad. Or you could go for a quesadilla on housemade tortillas.

A breakfast taco we tried had a thick slice of tender brisket topped with an over-easy egg and pico de gallo, all atop a housemade tortilla ($5). Other tacos include smoked pork ($4), barbacoa ($4), lengua ($4), chorizo ($3) and smoked sausage and bean ($3). Red and green salsa, both made in-house, add a punch of tang and heat.

There are also breakfast plates with more brisket, pancakes, chilaquiles, pork chops; all of which come with house-made tortillas.
But, it's not all savory here; perfecting confections is part of Gonzales' star-studded appeal. He rolls into his restaurant at 1 a.m. every morning to get these from-scratch doughnuts started. A display in the front has both cake and traditional doughnuts adorned with glaze, icing, coconut flakes and rainbow sprinkles. Gonzales says he spent a long time perfecting the recipe. Layers of fluffiness inside a plain glazed prove it.

One thing Gonzales wants to make clear is that this restaurant isn't about fried food. You’ll have to visit his booth at Fair Park in the fall for that. But the menu does advise diners to “ask about our daily specials and our award winning state fair fried items.”
For lunch, we tried the fajita quesadilla. The tortilla was a touch crisp from the grill and the fajita steak was tender and covered with melted cheese.

A side of bacon beer beans was a perfect al dente, soft with a bit of bite. So often beans suffer from being ignored, left on the stove too long or not flavored properly. Here they are worthy of a full meal. I’d pay by the ladle to take them home in my own container along with a few house-made tortillas.

As a nod to his Hispanic upbringing, Gonzales has pozole and menudo on Saturdays. And every day during lunch, he'll have a lunch special for $10-$12.

This is a great spot for breakfast for lunch, just don't ask Fried Jesus anything about his A&E show. He hasn't seen it.

AG Texican. 7101 Harry Hines Blvd. 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Saturday, Closed Sunday.