Cheap Bastard

Goghee To Go: Korean-Style Tacos Cause Brain to Short Circuit.

Goghee To Go's website says the restaurant offers "real food" with "100 percent real flavor." I can back them up on this claim. They do serve real food.

Goghee's offers up tacos, burritos, quesadillas, tortas and nachos—only they're all Korean barbecue-d up. It's really not that much of a departure from your regular taco —there's meat, there's cilantro, there's salsa. But the little things are different: The seasoning of the meats is sweet; the salsa roja is more Sriracha-inspired than Cholula-y; instead of seeing avocado on your torta, you'll see cabbage (If you're a cabbage-hater, your menu options just got cut in half). And weirdest of all for me was that I didn't taste citrus. Limes are nowhere to be found on this menu.

When I took that first bite of the beef goghee tacos that I ordered, my brain completely freaked out. The beef came wrapped in soft white corn tortillas. (Single corn tortilla, not double—they split when I ate them. I hate that.) There was onion pico, cilantro, salsa roja, cabbage slaw and a "Korean vinaigrette." Everything was fresh, the tacos were warm—they were beautiful to look at—but my eyes and mouth got in a huge argument about what I was eating that went something like this:

Eyes: Yes. Tacos!

Mouth: Actually, you're eating a rice bowl with no rice.

Eyes: Fuck you, these are tacos!

Mouth: Nope. Rice bowl sans rice. I will not be swayed.

Eyes: (punches mouth in the nuts)

Brain: (explodes)

It was a transvestite taco. The beef goghee taco was dressed up like a regular taco, but it was packing something more. And I kinda liked it. I think.

What I do know for sure is that I loved their nachos. It's just their seasoned chicken (which was much tastier than the beef), queso, onion pico with cilantro, salsa roja and creamy fresca on house-made tortilla chips. Their Korean-inspired sauce on nachos was brilliant. It was spicy, but not too spicy—it's one of those ideas that just works perfectly and it makes you feel like a dipshit for not having thought of it yourself. You know, like squeegees.

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Alice Laussade writes about food, kids, music, and anything else she finds to be completely ridiculous. She created and hosts the Dallas event, Meat Fight, which is a barbecue competition and fundraiser that benefits the National MS Society. Last year, the event raised $100,000 for people living with MS, and 750 people could be seen shoving sausage links into their faces. And one time, she won a James Beard Award for Humor in Writing. That was pretty cool.
Contact: Alice Laussade