Tei Tei Robata Bar Celebrates 25 Years on Henderson

Update on Jan. 7: We previously wrote that chef Teiichi Sakurai was a James Beard nominee, which is incorrect. He was a six-time semifinalist.

Tei Tei Robata Bar has seen its way through more than two decades of Dallas' churn-and-burn dining scene. Now that the picture is shifting with the openings of timeless neighborhood restaurants and all-day cafes, we hope to see restaurants linger for a little longer.

But Tei Tei? It’s been here all along.
The restaurant's history is a quarter-century long, so a little recap is in order. And you can't talk about the history without starting with six-time James Beard semifinalist chef Teiichi Sakurai.

1995: Sakurai opens Teppo, a Japanese restaurant specializing in yakitori charcoal-grilled chicken skewers. At the time, it was a pivotal opening in the Dallas dining scene. It served two seatings each night on Lower Greenville for 27 years before closing in 2022.

1998: Sakurai, still hungry to cook yakitori, opens Tei Tei Robata Bar and appoints Katsutoshi Sakamoto as executive chef. When the restaurant opened, they were the first to bring "Washu beef on the rock" from Japan to Dallas.

2008: Sakurai opens Tei-An. Sakamoto and his crew take over "Teiichi's little restaurant” (what Tei Tei means in Japanese).
The chefs say that when you're at Tei Tei, you're almost in Japan.

"A lot of items on the menu may seem unusual, unique, maybe even just weird. It may be different from what you are used to eating. That is just a cultural difference... those weird things, we grew up eating. So please open your mind, eyes and mouth, and enjoy the cultural experience during your visit," reads their website.

There's a handful of house cocktails and spirits to get you started. Everything has a Japanese twist or is made with an imported spirit. Example: the Yuzu Collins, made with Suntory Roku Gin and Yuzu.

Eyeing the daily special is the next step. It's always in the same format: raw, robata and more, and with seasonal ingredients.
Tei Tei's most enduring quality is that the dining room is filled with regulars. To our right was a family of three who considers Tei Tei a neighborhood restaurant despite driving 30 minutes from Sunnyvale. On our left was a couple who brought chef Sakamoto a gift for the holidays.

Frequent diners go all-in with the menu as each chef calmly but precisely mans their station.

Even as a first-timer diner, I was brought into the circle when the family next to me pointed and asked, "Is that the scallop sushi?"

"Yes, it is." I smiled. Ever since I had the scallop nigiri at the now Michelin-starred omakase restaurant, Tatsu, I've been fiending for my next fix. The scallops at Tei Tei are flown in from Hokkaido and served on a fat mound of sushi rice. You might doubt it, but one bite is possible.

These scallops are much creamier and tender than their regular Atlantic counterparts, and when served raw, you get the full spectrum of their rich flavor and explosive sweetness.

As for the main menu, it changes slightly with the season, but some items, like the miso-marinated sea bass, have been staples since the place opened in 1998.

The menu is designed to encourage diners to try different dishes rather than a standard appetizer, entree and dessert. It's great for solo diners, but groups do have more fun here. Ordering something off the robata grill is a must.
The snow crab and mushroom soup was shockingly hearty. It’s a miso-based soup with rice, crab, egg and mushrooms and it's served at a rapid boil. A head turner for sure and very cozy for the season.

We were shocked when they set the Shumai dumplings down in front of us because they took the average amount of pork and beef usually stuffed into a dumpling and doubled it.
The thin wrap was hanging on for dear life, but the ratio was still perfect. They’re served with a tatami sauce (like ponzu, but saltier) and a spicy Japanese mustard that has a strong wasabi kick.

The artichoke was a clear labor of love off the robata grill, and our lychee martini was subtly sweet and refreshing.

On the dessert menu, we spotted something we’d never seen before: chocolate bavoroie. It’s a French dessert that’s also referred to as Bavarian Cream. It’s like an identical twin to chocolate mousse. Same-same but different.

We weren’t surprised to find it on a Japanese restaurant's menu because it fits right into the “not too sweet category” Japan is known for. The chocolate flavor is rich but subtle, and not too heavy. Which means you’ll definitely have room for dessert even if you’ve indulged.

Tei Tei Robata Bar, 2906 N. Henderson Ave. Sunday and Tuesday – Thursday, 5:30–10 p.m.; Friday – Saturday, 5:30–11 p.m.; Monday, closed.