In a soon-to-be-published survey of the top 50 Mexican restaurants statewide, Texas Monthly food editor Patricia Sharpe concludes Texas is shifting from Tex-Mex to Mex-Tex - and one of the best edible examples of the trend is found in Dallas.
According to a teaser for the December issue story, the magazine's top five Mexican restaurants -- in no particular order -- are Fonda San Miguel in Austin; Salsa Fuego in Fort Worth; Hugo's in Houston; SoLuna in San Antonio and Cuquita's in Dallas (Nice how that geographic distribution worked out so fairly, huh?)
Cuquita's is celebrated by Yelpers and my neighbor Robert Wilonsky for its mole, chilaquiles, milanesa and other dishes that don't surface on every queso-stained Tex-Mex menu. "Mexican food is the richest and most dynamic native cuisine in Texas, and it's getting more Mexican all the time," Sharpe writes in her introduction.
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