At last, the spacious outdoor patio and smart dining room with the large L-shaped bar are hopping with diners anxious to try barbecue master Aaron Franklin's brisket along with chef Tyson Cole's Asian fare. It's a lovely thing to have cuisine from two of Texas' most prized chefs, skipping along down Haskell Avenue, hand-in-hand.
Loro is specifically an Asian Smokehouse. The mascot of their menu might be the bavette; a tender smoked prime steak served with a shishito salsa verde, cilantro and pickled onion. Smoked brisket is only available after 4 p.m. every day (they weren't interested in manning smokers overnight). The menu also includes smoked salmon, smoked turkey, and Malaysian chicken bo ssam served with a yellow curry-yuzu vinaigrette and Thai basil. It's a kaleidoscope of flavors with a fat brisket swirling in the middle.
But while peeking at the menu before a visit, the humble cheeseburger curtseyed and said, "Hi there." You can get a burger anywhere, this is a special place, right? When in Rome get the brisket! But, the mere ubiquitousness of the burger was provocative. Also, it's topped with Muenster cheese and a red onion-brisket jam.
What Loro's cheeseburger really amounts to is a smash burger; a ground beef patty, seared on the outside, Sunday pink in the middle, topped with a mound of Aaron Franklin's chopped brisket.
Sometimes, food reviewers like to point out if a bun is strong enough to hold a sandwich together. Let that go. Let this burger live its life and out-muscle the bun. About halfway through eating the burger, the bun starts to dissolve into all the beefy sweat and fat. At some point, a point at which you'll have to determine based on your own abilities, just stuff what's left into your face. Then breathe in through your nose and think about what a wonderful time it is to be alive.
The Loro cheeseburger will set you back $12.50 between 11:30 a.m. and 5 p.m., which is the only time it's available. In fortuitous happy hour news, it's only $8.75 on weekdays, 2 to 5 p.m., at which time a cold Sapporo is just $3.
Order these two food items and don't make eye contact with anyone who tries to sway you to do otherwise.
Loro Dallas, 1812 N Haskell Ave. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday - Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.