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There are a lot of lists out there. Ours included (not to throw stones). We put a lot of effort and calories (and steps) behind our work, and so when we come across a new one, my first question is always, “Says who?” and/or “Prove it.”
Business Insider recently released a list of the “most iconic steakhouses in each state.” I thought a spot from Houston might be at the top of the list or … Cowtown? Locally, we have some great steakhouses, including Al Biernat’s, Bob’s (for nostalgia), Nick and Sam’s (for the opposite of nostalgia) and new ones like Nuri, which has received accolades (Paula Forbes at Texas Monthly said it was the best steak she had all year).
The Carnival of Steakhouses
Business Insider went with The Big Texas Steakhouse in Amarillo along Route 66. This is the tent-show of steakhouses. The front is splashed with neon yellow, with its name in a big, hokey font. Inside the tables are covered with plastic cowhide tablecloths. The lights and kitsch are too bright to take this meal seriously. The big draw here is the 72-ounce steak challenge. Eat the steak, along with shrimp cocktail, a baked potato, salad, roll and butter in less than an hour, and the $72 meal is free.
People travel from around the world to visit this steak show.
If The Big Texas Steakhouse is an icon, it’s not because of dry-aged cuts of steak from pure-bred Angus cattle from a ranch in Central Texas, where green rolling hills are the show.
What Michelin Says
The Michelin Guide landed in Texas in 2024, and since its team of inspectors has been eating at some of Dallas’ finer restaurants. Early this year, they released a list of the best steakhouses in Texas, where “legendary cattle ranches inspire the state’s culinary identity.” Here’s an article we wrote about just that: “How A Ranch in Central Texas Has Elevated Dallas Dining.”
There are just six restaurants on Michelin’s list:
- Jeffrey’s, Austin
- Maie Day, Austin
- Credence, Houston
- Pappas Bros., Houston (but hold your horses)
- Isidore, San Antonio
The sixth restaurant on the list (not ranked numerically) is Stillwell’s at the Swexan Hotel. Now, there are other great steakhouses that source steaks from local ranches, like John Tesar’s Knife Italian Steak. But it seems Michelin is sticking to the restaurants already mentioned in their guide, and the latter isn’t.
Stillwell’s is a worthy selection for their bespoke in-house HWD Beef Program. The company, part of Harwood International, has ranches across Texas and Oklahoma where they raise Akaushi cattle. The culinary team implements a whole-animal program across their collection of restaurants in the Harwood District.
The best way to experience what Stilwell’s has to offer is to get the chef’s tasting menu. It’s a far cry from Amarillo’s meat-sweats affair and twice the cost, but we think you’ll find it worthy. For $125 per guest, get a 7-course meal that includes East Coast oysters, tartare, beef dumplings, crudo, baby kale, charred carrots, a 6-ounce file, and a poached pear tart to finish.
You still holding those horses? Pappas Bros. has a Dallas restaurant, too. So we win here too. Pappas’ dry-aged steaks are legendary in Houston. And the sommeliers here don’t get enough recognition (when I go, I try).
