Short Orders: Kel’s Restaurant

Kel’s Restaurant5337 Forest Lane972-458-7221Kel’s exists in a geography warp. To cross its threshold is to enter a much smaller Dallas–not yet sprawling and still largely southern in nature. There’s no particular thought put into decor, other than a partially hidden Kel’s-themed mural that seems rather tone deaf. Staff members also…

10 Questions: Megyn Price

Yeah, she’s one of those budding Hollywood stars. Price played in films good (Mystery, Alaska) and bad (Larry the Cable Guy: Health Inspector)…so clearly she’s paid her dues.These days she’s part of the ensemble driving the CBS sitcom Rules of Engagement, set to begin its third season on Monday, March…

Food For Thought 2.26.09

“The straw and orange have been there for a long time, but people have not necessarily had a huge connection to them.” (Neil Campbell, president of Tropicana North America, announcing a design change on boxes of the company’s orange juice last month.) “What we didn’t get was the passion this…

Pairing Off: Frozen Fish Sticks

More than any other “normal” food we’ve paired with wine thus far in this series, fish sticks scared the bejeezus out of the experts.”God,” mutters Jim Fleming of Sigel’s Elite, shaking his head. “Oh, man,” exclaims Majestic’s Scott Loudder at the thought. “You come up with some odd ones.”But when…

10 Questions: Abraham Salum

First we all knew him as executive chef of Parigi. Four years ago he decided to open his own place, the self-styled Salum.Tucked into that in-between ground–kind of Uptown, but near enough to Highland Park–it remains a destination for those who know. And he probably doesn’t mind occupying such uncertain…

Food For Thought 2.25.09

“I don’t know what lactose intolerance is, but this sure feels like it.” (Pat Johnson–not a famous person, but my administrative assistant years ago at a PBS station, probably muttered while she was transcribing one of my interview tapes. Not a new quote, I know–nor a statement of great import…but still…

10 Questions: Shawn Egerton

For a few years he worked quietly and efficiently in one of the city’s noisiest environments. But Egerton helped to build one of Dallas’ best bartending teams.It’s not always a fun job, slinging drinks for guests packed ten deep waving for your attention. Yet he and his crew at Candleroom…

Food For Thought 2.24.09

“The president calls Bill ‘the crustmaster,’ because he’s a big pie guy.” (First Lady Michelle Obama introducing a group of culinary students to White House pastry chef Bill Yosses. Apparently W isn’t the only president who deals out nicknames to staff members. At least Obama didn’t stoop to “Turd Blossom.”…

Short Orders: S & D Oyster Company

For an unkempt, boxy little joint to last thirty plus years on a gentrified avenue…well, it must be some sort of local record for longevity. But S & D Oyster Company is so old they quote the long lost Dallas Times Herald on their website.Just how have they managed more…

Place, Show, Win

Bartenders will tell you that floor space in any of the city’s up-market lounges is tantamount to real estate.Well, they might not say “tantamount” and “real estate,” but they recognize the value of a prime bar spot, high-visibility table, dark corner or bit of ground in between–value that wavers according…

10 Questions: Jeff Moschetti

Before he came to Dallas from San Francisco, Moschetti had never worked in a hotel restaurant.But he handled duties in the Crescent Court, opened Hotel ZaZa’s Dragonfly–and built it into an institution–and now keeps the Warwick Melrose’s Landmark Restaurant running at five star level. His resume also includes a stint…

Food For Thought 2.23.09

“When you order a recall and don’t get a response, you’ve got to do something to protect the public.” (Doug McBride of the Texas Department of State Health Services, noting that the Peanut Corporation of America plant in Plainview had not responded to an order to recall all products shipped…

Burning Question: Are People Tipping Less?

Some wag in some diner some years ago posted a clever reminder for guests: “Tipping is not a city in China”–which may have seemed funny, oh, about once.Nowadays China owns a good chunk of American debt, as well as the power to let us topple into the economic dunking pool…if…

10 Questions: Mr. Dallas

He is, in every sense of the word, The Man.Well, that attribution is probably only true for those of us sharing far too much zeal for nightlife, but still…No one is better than this bleary-eyed Dallas Morning News icon at zeroing in on a scene, distilling it into words and making it all…

Food For Thought 2.20.09

“There were no vegetarian restaurants in Akron. Plus I wanted to do something to help destroy the mall culture of downtown.” (Chrissie Hynde, who some of us–well, at least one–consider the most beautiful woman in the world, on the opening of her first restaurant. The VegiTerranean is, as you guessed,…

Short Orders: Nicola’s

Nicola’s 5800 Legacy Drive, Plano 972-608-4455 Consistency is the sweeping corner at Monza known as the Parabolica–a deceptive right hand turn, it’s fastest line lurking somewhere just beyond each apex. Miss this line and the race car seems to teeter, as if fighting for balance on the edge of a…

10 Questions: Steven Harvey

For years, Dwight Harvey catered in his spare time…although the ever-increasing popularity of his barbecue didn’t leave him much room for rest.Along the way, he taught the trade to son Steven. Eight months ago, after Dwight retired from his day job, the pair opened Off the Bone Barbeque–which has very…

Food For Thought 2.19.09

“Once the first freeze arrives in the fall, the supply of local produce in North Texas drops precipitously. We are left to survive until spring on pecans, Texas citrus, the occasional greens–and sweet potatoes.” (Kim Pierce in yesterday’s Dallas Morning News, sorta bringing up in her lead paragraph something I’ve…

Fedora: Supper-Club Italian that Quickly Becomes Old Hat

Once upon a time, supper clubs ruled the American dining scene. These were fancy dress and cocktail destinations with cigarette girls roaming the aisles and big bands providing ambience. Now and again, someone will catch an old black and white film and be captivated enough by the elegance of such…

Pairing Off: Sonic Hot Dogs

Perhaps I’m treading new and uncertain ground here. There’s nothing as American as hot dogs…except perhaps for baseball, apple pie and Chevrolet, although a couple of those are in the midst of death throes. And, of course, if we call them Frankfurters, they somehow become a German sausage.Otherwise, there’s nothing…

10 Questions: James Neel

He wanted to be a chef since the age of six, when he would “surprise” his parents with self-taught recipes. Neel’s first professional role, however, was at the famous Ninfa’s in Houston–as a dishwasher.After working his way up to a chef’s apprentice role, he attended cooking school at Le Cordon…