Laid Back On The Lake

Back when we lived way east on 30 near Zion Road, we nicknamed that giant reservoir out there “Lake Ray Stumpy”, for reasons we probably don’t have to explain. The weather’s been kinder lately, though, and things are looking much fuller. Probably no coincidence that business there has reached high…

Sloppy Seconds: A Case of the Mondays

In this back-to-school edition of Sloppy Seconds, we’re recapping a hectic week that saw complications both technical and interpersonal as the City of Ate crew went about its business. Still, from wine classes to a little meta-analysis, last week saw plenty of learning opportunities for devotees of the Dallas dining…

Question Of The Week: What Is The Best New Restaurant Of 2009?

Yeah, I know–the year’s not up yet. But our annual “Best of Dallas” issue comes out in September and I’ve already turned in my selection.So what’s your pick for best restaurant to open so far this year? Is it a fancy spot like Five-Sixty or something simple–Lumi, perhaps, or Si?…

And The Winner Is…

It was an unusually frantic week at City of Ate, thanks in part to those [expletive deleted]’s at Lazare, but more to our own tedious blogging software, which one day decided–all on its own–to block all comments.Still, we had a lot to work with. And if we were giving away…

Handle The Proof: An Oregon Grappa

Most people first encounter grappa in the form of a cheap, punishing brand–the taste of cleaning fluids and jet exhaust being the gentler characteristics.Generally it’s also their last encounter with the spirit conjured from the pulpy leftovers of wine pressings. That’s right, the unique flavor of grappa (or marc in…

Just What Do They Sell In A Cheese Shop?

“How does this place make money?” You know you’ve heard that question dozens of times–whether from a friend or in your own head–when looking at the small, boutique purveyors so popular in the food world these days. We encountered it just yesterday on a trip to Scardello Artisan Cheese from…

Hophead: Is Bigger Really That Much Better?

This week, Sigel’s announced that it is taking early orders for a dozen 6-liter bottles of Unibroue’s La Fin Du Monde golden ale. Catch is, these collector’s items come at the eyebrow-raising (or unibrow-raising) price of $219.99 a bottle. And that’s a discount: the “regular price,” according to Sigel’s, is…

Mi Cocina vs Carolina’s Mexican Cuisine: Mole Melee

Like so many of the world’s most famous dishes, the true origins of mole are shrouded by time. Is it, as many insist, from Puebla or did cooks in Oaxaca first concoct the spicy bitter chocolate sauce? Maybe it was created by nuns. Some say it resulted from a kitchen…

Short Orders: Bob’s Steak & Chop House

Bob’s Steak & Chop House4300 Lemmon Avenue214-528-9446Quite a number of those who dine out on a regular basis are still in the dark as to Bob Sambol and his legal difficulties. Talk at surrounding tables on a recent visit centered on some encounter with Jerry Jones’ bodyguard Roosevelt (“he didn’t…

Veggie Guy: Roy’s Natural Market

After a rough Saturday night–I’ll spare you the details, but I will say this: there was much vodka involved–Sunday’s hangover carried into Monday. Tuesday–still not human. So I got online to Tweet about my misery. Then I saw a Tweet from one of my raw food friends that read, “Alcohol…

Bella gives a little-known, talented chef a place to shine

Everyone is familiar with Dean Fearings and Stephan Pyles and the other big boys of the Dallas dining set, but this year a group of relative unknowns is challenging their celebrity chef status. Sure, both continue at the top of the table, and the return of Nick Badovinus and Marc…

Split Peas Soup Café: Can We Just Be Friends

With many of my favorite homegrown Dallas restaurants closing down (Mr. Barbecue Bus is gone, Big D’s Dogs bit it and now Vern’s Place is shutting its doors? I hate choo, Dallas!), it’s not as easy to find a $10 lunch here as it used to be. Of course, I…

Top 10 Most Interesting Restaurant Week Dishes

Several days into the annual charity event and we’ve finally had a chance to poke through some menus.Now, we weren’t looking for the best item or the most original. What we want from KRLD Restaurant Week–aside from a cheap three or four course dinner–is something that jumps from the list…

Pairing Off: Dunkin’ Donuts

Each week, Pairing Off attempts to find just the right bottle of wine to go with ordinary food.Back in 1982 I took off with a friend on summer long road trip up and down the east coast, from Montreal to Atlanta and many, many points in between.It was a good…

Good Riddance Lazare And Other Annoyances From Yesterday

OK, so we’re a little steamed here.First off, our blog system was acting up: running like, well, me on a football field (which is to say slow), cutting off sentences when we pounded the keyboard in frustration, dropping comments. But it’s all better now.Then the people at Lazare, who last…

On The Range: Gorditas

On The Range is a weekly exploration of the history and lore of Texas menu items.Be careful how you use the term “gordita”. It can get you into trouble real fast. Like many food-related expressions in Mexican culture, gordita has more than one meaning. You can use it colloquially as…

Bottles, Bottles Everywhere…But Not A Drop To Drink

No segment of the food and beverage industry so reflects the desire for smaller, more personalized purveyors than wine. Wine lovers want magic and prestige–not a mass-market bottle from a corner gas station (usually found in a cooler, right next to the Coors Light).But therein lies the trouble. What we…

Dude Food: Carnival Fantasy

Carnival Fantasy1-888-CARNIVALDude Factor: 7, or Jack Sparrow, on a scale of 1 (“In The Navy”-era Village People) to 10 (Popeye the Sailor)Every time it came up in conversation that my family and I would be going on a four-day cruise to Cozumel, I found myself over-explaining or making excuses as…

Veggie Guy: Vapiano

Funny how Vapiano, the German-based fast-casual restaurant in Mockingbird Station, actually feels like Germany. Maybe it’s the color scheme–a little like the Nutelleria in Frankfurt–or maybe it’s the fact that the system here is so foreign, and words sorta get lost in translation. As Date and I entered Vapiano, a…