Henderson Chicken

Pieces of chicken I ordered but did not eat count: 0 Glass wall between the chicken and me count: 1 Recently, a chicken place opened on Abrams Road right next to my favorite doughnut shop. And since chicken and doughnuts is my dream meal, I’d been waiting for it to…

Neighborhood Services

Neighborhood Services Temperatures had begun to settle from a tolerable peak of 50 degrees one evening when a man strolled intoNeighborhood Services decked out in fur. Pan-roastedmussels $8 Bacon andover-easy egg $9 Fennel sausageflatbread $10 Lobster fritters $14 Seared scallops $19 Berkshire ribsand rings $23 Yep, a guy—and not a…

Open Sesame

It’s no mystery that we’re a fan of sweet treats around these parts. And thanks to our last Best of Dallas issue, it’s also no mystery that we dig on the Natsumi gelato. We’ve given props to the organic partially-organic gelato purveyor for hand-cranking flavors that taste so much like…

Hibashi Teppan Grill and Sushi Bar

First impressions lead me to believe Steven Sohn is one of those larger-than-life, whoop-it-up Texas characters of legend. The Hibashi Teppan Grill and Sushi Bar owner shelled out close to $3 million—a very Dallas-like sum—on his place, filling some of the wall space with appropriately ostentatious sculptures. He reserved a…

Nueva Casita

Turquoise rings for sale in the restaurant count: 20 Free Three Wise Men bilingual storybook given to me on my way out count: 1 Driving back from Austin on Interstate 35, I saw a billboard that said, “Nueva Casita. Best Tex-Mex in Dallas.” I was like, “Damn Nueva Casita—that’s a…

Just How Blue-Collar is the Blue Collar Bar?

Several years ago, in a somewhat disturbing trend, relatively affluent 20-somethings began donning Von Dutch trucker hats and crowding into the contrived environs of places like Double Wide. Downing cans of beer in a staged version of Podunk apparently made privileged urban types feel more real, more down-to-earth—a kind of…

Sal’s: The Pizza’s Good, But the Pasta’s to Die For

Insanely short straw count: 1 Probably hookers count: 12 Thank you, Sal’s, for being a pizza and pasta place that has more than just pizza-by-the-slice as a lunch special. I’ve got nothing against the slice. The pizza at Sal’s is otherworldly. It’s made from raindrops on roses and whiskers on…

A Tough Year for Local Restaurants Sputters to an End

This has been, by any standard, an interesting year. Americans made history by living up to—finally—the “regardless of race, creed or color” principle we ostensibly cherish. That President-elect Barack Obama came from the usually disheveled ranks of that often-pointless party known as “Democrats” makes our national break with the past…

RJ Mexican Cuisine: The West End Staple Should Focus on the Staples

If, thanks to Hollywood, one is likely to compare the seeming randomness of destiny to a Whitman’s Sampler, what then stands in for life’s certainties? Perhaps it’s too local to gain large-scale popularity, but I would suggest RJ Mexican Cuisine. When you ask waitresses at this popular and longstanding West…

Bolsa: Delicious “Slow Food” Without the Smug.

Years ago, in response to a seeming onslaught of prepackaged goods and quick-service chain restaurants, a few activist gourmands began spouting the moral superiority of “slow foods.” Not just organic or free-range, mind you, but also locally grown and “sustainable.” Forgetting that in the days when people ate natural foods…

Shish: Turkish, But no Delight

Not having seen 300, Hollywood’s beefcake version of the ancient grievances between Persia and the Greek city-states, I must settle for a more dated image of Turkey’s once-great warriors. On stones unearthed over time by scholars—you know, those sullen experts we’ve preferred to ignore ever since popular culture turned to…

Pyramid Room: As fun as a Vacation in Nebraska

How often must MBA recipients prove their “worthiness” before we finally stop listening? And before you many upstanding business folks finish that “hey, wait just one damn minute” thought, keep in mind what MBAs have wrought lately. There’s W, for example—whom the conservative media once lauded as our first such…

Gazeebo Burgers: A Big Bite of Nothing

Extra “e” in the name count: 1 Actual gazebo in the parking lot count: 1 I was having one of those “Can’t Decide What I Want for Lunch” days when I started to lose my mind because I was so hungry, but at the same time nothing I drove past…

Suze

“Suze. No, S-U-Z-E—it’s at Northwest Highway and Midway, right next to the Albertson’s.” This singular restaurant should need no introduction, but I probably suffered through this painstaking routine five times before finally convincing someone to join me for dinner one evening. Perhaps if I refrained from mentioning the strip-mall setting—makes…

Is Expanding the Dallas Smoking Ordinance a Commie Plot?

It might seem that the battle lines between those supporting the expansion of the Dallas smoking ban to bars, taverns and pool halls would be clearly drawn: nonsmokers versus smokers and those who own bars, taverns and pool halls. But things at City Hall are seldom that easy. Instead, Dallas…

Greenz Is About More Than Salads and Creative Spelling

Lunch plate delivered to me at my table count: 1 Times my tea was refilled for me: 2 Actual waiters working in this establishment: 0 When asked what I’d like to have for lunch, never have I uttered the phrase, “Ooooh—ya know what I’ve really got a craving for? Salad!”…

Normandie Alliance Reaches for France and Comes Up Short

They were long and bleak, the months between March 2003 and January of this year—for local gourmands, anyway. Sure, one could pipe recorded accordion music through the place or dress waiters up in striped shirts and berets, but local restaurateurs could only dream of recreating the feel of an authentic…

Chip’s Old Fashioned Hamburgers

Panic attack count: 1 Packed tables count: 12 When I’m feeling like eating a burger but I don’t want all that convenience and crappy quality that a fast food restaurant offers, I head on over to Chip’s Old Fashioned Hamburgers. I drove to their Cole Avenue location hyped up for…

Victor Tango

The waitress attending my table one evening applied the ominous phrase “to die for” to almost every dish. Really, when I think about it, I’m not certain I want to die for my meal—although it’s always a possibility. As every veteran food writer will tell you, if a slider has…

And The Winner Is…Christopher

Yep, Christopher. He left us with the week’s best bit of reader commentary. In response to our search for a wine to go with KFC (Pairing Off), Christopher wrote: “Fried Chicken and Champagne: Dallas on a Plate.” He wins a packet of turkey gravy mix, sent to us by the…