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It is only right that institutions are slow to change. They shouldn’t be subject to the whims and wishes of fashion and trends–they should move at the pace of history. So it is really big news that S & D Oyster Company, on McKinney, has added a new menu item. S & D has long been known for its broiled fish, poorboys, oysters, and shrimp. And not only does its menu, old-fashioned white-tablecloth service, and ceiling fans recall the mother of Gulf seafood, New Orleans. Its attitude is also typical–easily summed up as, what more could you want? The answer is barbecued shrimp. Not skewered or grilled like a Texan would do, but slathered in hot spices (that’s where the barbecue comes in) till they’re impossible to eat without a bib (provided), and irresistible. A New Orleans classic, made famous at Manale’s, and now on McKinney.
–Mary Brown Malouf
S & D Oyster Company, 2701 McKinney Ave., 880-0111.
