Screen Door’s Meat Loaf Sandwich Turns a Leftover Classic into a Worthy Lunch Order

I had an outdoor seat at the Screen Door for lunch today. The sun was a little warm, but there was a nice stiff breeze, perfect for lifting napkins off your table and blowing paper menus away. The One Arts group of restaurants was bustling, as workers pushed back against The Man and extended their lunch break as long as they could.

Unless they’re one of those rich, stewed meat dishes that get better after a night in the fridge, leftovers usually disappoint. But the Screen Door has turned a second-day-sandwich into a serious lunch menu item. Two massively thick slices of meatloaf, blackened on the grill, get topped with a handful of wispy fried onions, sweet pickles and a sweet chili jam. The sturdy sourdough held up well, but this is the first sandwich I’ve had in a long time I had to cut in half to manage without making a mess. I couldn’t even finish the thing.

I thought sweet potato fries would have been a little much, but I wish I’d gotten them. I nabbed one from a neighboring plate and they beat the regular potato fries hand down.