This schlocky restaurant was drafted to look like a basement neighborhood Southern Italian supper club where portions are heaped "family style" and flavors run from vapid to vivid. If your expectations are modest, your belly will end up captivated.
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Tacky misses the point. The outside of the restaurant is painted red, the kind of crimson that occurs when you leave tomato sauce on top of a flame too long. Positioned at various points along the wall are Romanesque statues brushed...