This is a truly distinctive Mexican restaurant that is essentially a collection of family recipes inspired by the cuisine of Cotija (for which the cheese was named), a small town in the southwestern state of Michoacan. Sinking their American roots in Arkansas with seven Mexican restaurants, the Oseguera family made their way to Dallas to perform before a more sophisticated audience. They succeed. Remarkable dishes include red snapper in chipotle lime butter sauce and the quail basted in ancho-chile sauce. Chile rellenos are treated with cinnamon, banana and white wine walnut sauce--like nothing you've tasted in the species.
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You'd think we'd get more Mexican than we do. The real stuff, the kind that grips you with such intensity you want to light a candle to the Virgin for dessert. We don't light many candles, though. La Joya means "the jewel," or some ...