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Meso Maya

Hand-made tortillas that kick ass: That’s really all you need to know about Meso Maya. Chef Nico Sanchez doesn't have to devote so much of his staff's time and effort to tortilla-making, but he does, and that attention to detail filters down into most of the cooking in this Preston Hollow Mex-Mex spot. They turn out an outstanding pozole and a good ceviche of shrimp and striped bass. Order the chili rellenos, which stray from tradition in a play that's gutsy but works. Instead of roasted green chiles, Sanchez employs peppadew peppers from South Africa. Pickled in a sweet brine, the peppers are stuffed with goat cheese and queso fresco and encased in crisp tempura. Enchiladas and chicken mole round out Meso Maya's strongest offerings.

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