Though the interior is done in chain-restaurant monotony, the food here-driven by chef Brian Olenjack (Chisholm Club, Reata, Metro Grill, etc.)-is a cut above most any Americana you can think of. Southern and Southwestern grace notes make antelope ribs, striped bass, crab cakes-even a simple bowl of greens-must tastes. And how often can you say that?
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You can see the curving steel beams rise like a bump in the distance, cranes hovering over them like mantises, the spine arching out of a wave. Olenjack's Grille rests in the thick of it, or what is likely to be the thick, standing ...
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