Kathy Tran
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When Team Dallas signed chef RJ Yoakum as the executive sous chef at Georgie in 2023, it was one for the win column. Yoakum’s previous work includes the French Laundry (three Michelin stars, the Angler in San Francisco (one star) and the Clover Club in London (two stars).
While Yoakum was at Georgie, the restaurant was awarded a recommendation in the newly released Texas Michelin Guide, and the chef was a finalist for the James Beard Award for Emerging Chef.
This summer, Georgie parted ways with Yoakum after what Travis Street Hospitality called “multiple violations of company policy that do not align with our company’s values.” Nothing more was reported by either party.
Recently, while scouting reservations at the Michelin-recommended Sushi Kozy, I noticed that Yoakum was hosting a dinner at the restaurant on a recent Saturday night. Of course, it was sold out.
Today, we have news that the courtship was successful. The restaurant, situated downtown on Ross Avenue near the Arts District, has named Yoakum as its chef de cuisine.
Sushi Kozy
Sushi Kozy is rooted in the Japanese principles of kaiseki. The Michelin Guide writes:
“More elegant than cozy, this omakase-only spot from Chef Paul Ko offers a contemporary blend of kaiseki and sushi in a stylishly modern setting. … The meal begins with composed bites featuring international flavors, like a crisp phyllo pastry of duck confit, maple and pistachio, or a kombu-cured sea bass crudo paired with tarragon, yuzu kosho and apple.”
Sushi Kozy chef and owner Paul Ko joined Uchi in 2017, rising through the ranks to become head sushi chef. The name Sushi Kozy comes from his surname, Ko, which means “small” or “child,” and was intended to represent a space that feels refined and intimate.
The addition of Yoakum to this already Michelin-recommended restaurant will undoubtedly enhance its allure.
The 17-course tasting menu at Sushi Kozy features a combination of seasonal Japanese and local ingredients and is priced at $185 per person.