Lauren Drewes Daniels
Audio By Carbonatix
In this series of interviews, we chat with Dallas chefs about trends, kitchen disasters, overhyped ingredients and favorite meals.
This week, we caught up with chef Toby Archibald in his kitchen at Quarter Acre, where he was prepping for Wednesday dinner service. Side note: Quarter Acre has a new five-course tasting menu Tuesday through Thursday for $105. The seven-course menu the rest of the week is worth every bit at $145, but if you want to start slow, this mid-week option is wonderful.
Chef Archibald’s journey from New Zealand, where he was born and raised, to kitchens around the world eventually landed him in New York City, where he worked under Daniel Boulud. At Quarter Acre, he marries his coastal upbringing, classic training and travels with local ingredients, making for a delightful culinary adventure. Which is best experienced through his aforementioned tasting menu.
What’s your go-to meal when you need something quick and easy?
Raising Canes!
What’s one food trend that needs to retire immediately?
Flashy restaurants are opening, saying they will be different, but the menus are all the same as the other flashy places here in town. Also, I like avocado and Tuna too, but it does not need to be on every menu in town.
Pick one: Michelin Guide or Luka back?
Michelin for sure.
If you’re on a date and you want to really get to know the person’s true character — and if the relationship has real potential — where are you taking them?
A comedy show. They need to know how to laugh and appreciate that life is not so serious ALL the time.
Who is a Dallas maker (farmer, pastry chef, barkeep) you wish more people knew about?
Tida Picharkron at Haute Sweets. She is so talented and has always helped me with information as a small business owner.
Soundtrack vibe: What’s the soundtrack for your favorite meal?
Old school blues on my record player: Muddy Waters, Blind Lemon, Lightning Hopkins, Howlin’ Wolf, BB King.
What dish will you be most remembered for?
The Glory Bay hot-smoked salmon.
What are some of your favorite restaurants in Dallas right now?
Encina, Mot Hai Ba and Taco y Vino.
Should caviar really be on everything?
No! But it sure tastes great when it is on the RIGHT thing, doesn’t it?
What’s the worst thing that’s ever happened in your kitchen – that you can speak of?
Oh, jeez, The Bear has nothing on the first two years at Quarter Acre. Staff going to jail, hood vents breaking, the power going out mid-service, things catching on fire, dishwashers walking out mid-service, the usual, really.
What’s the most under-appreciated position/job in a restaurant?
The dishwasher.
What menu embellishment makes you crazy?
“Au jus’…. “Would you like some of the Au jus?” It literally means “WITH sauce!” People use this term so very wrong! Jus, is the sauce! Au jus is not the sauce, it means ‘with the sauce’ gah!!!!
What is something that, if you see on a menu, you’re ordering immediately?
Octopus.
What’s the toughest challenge facing the restaurant industry right now?
Wow, that answer is long and short all at the same time! Rising costs is the short answer, but the long answer is: lease prices, staff prices, food prices, delivery prices, all the prices. The public knows life in general is getting more expensive, but as soon as menu prices go up, we get complaints.
What has having the Michelin Guide in Texas done for Dallas dining?
First up, the dining scene got a reality check; the city’s restaurants were not at that level. Now, restaurants are trying to be better. This, I love.
What’s the best meal you’ve ever had?
My mum’s lasagna any time. Or my meal at Alinea in 2014.
