Beef's the star at this upscale eatery, but the kitchen staff thankfully strays into the dairy section of the food pyramid to do miraculous things with liberal doses of cheese. The manly menu includes a terrific appetizer of Romano-encrusted crisp-tender asparagus; bacon-wrapped shrimp crammed with cheddar; "that salad," featuring brandied cherries and crumbled Oregon blue; filthy rich scalloped potatoes and an unforgettable four-cheese lobster mac that pairs beautifully with a rib-eye or filet. Still, the restaurant's true to steakhouse traditions, treating its guests with kid-gloves care: Leftovers-if there are any-are sent home in black boxes closed with gold monogram seals.