Surely the fry cooks at the defunct Long John Silvers location that now houses Fish Shack never imagined fashioning whitefish ceviche or grilling rainbow trout, both can't-miss specialties at this humble counter-service joint in Plano. What elevates the offerings is fish fresh enough to please even a one-legged pirate: Delivery trucks visit the restaurant no fewer than four times a week. But fans of battered seafood needn't despair. Other menu stand-outs include delicate crab cakes, perfectly executed hush puppies and greaseless coconut shrimp, dabbed with sweet marmalade. And while fresh Gulf-style seafood may be the main attraction here, but the happy hours alone are almost worth the trip. Drafts are $2.50-and that includes craft brews from Hawaii's Kona Brewery, not just the usual Bud and Coors lights. Classic rock on the P.A. and a relaxed family-friendly atmosphere draws a diverse neighborhood crowd to this small, comfortable shack.
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At Fish Shack, location is not everything. Nor is presentation. Nor, come to think of it, is appearance, plate-arrival timing, or even the name of the place—when's the last time you wanted to eat in a shack, anyway? What matte...