Bourbon & Banter (now open); Scout, a craft beer bar with bowling lanes and ample distractions in the form of TVs and pingpong tables; Fine China, a pan-Asian restaurant; Waterproof, a poolside roof deck bar and lounge; and Overeasy, the first restaurant to open in the ever-growing complex.
At the helm of all this newness: Graham Dodds, whose high-profile Southern food spot Wayward Sons closed in February. It's not likely that we'll be eating at Fine China or Scout before 2018, but at Overeasy, Dodds' skillset has yielded an admirable downtown breakfast.
Overeasy was smart to include a coffee joint at the entrance, enabling guests to grab a quick Americano or affogato without dining in. But if you dine in, you've got appropriately Texas-y options: chilaquiles ($10), brisket hash ($14), a flight of five different deviled eggs ($8). It's a menu with a sense of place, likely to delight business-minded out-of-towners, especially those who don't hail from Texas.
This being Graham Dodds, the real star of the show are the biscuits and gravy ($8). They're just two biscuits topped with sausage patties and gravy, and the biscuits were perfectly fluffy on the inside with a light crunch on the exterior. It's a simple Southern breakfast, but when done well, it makes a damn fine start to the day. If you don't eat meat, there's a mushroom gravy option made with roasted portobellos.
The Statler's concepts are all in their early phases (or yet to come), but so far, they've got our attention. Overeasy is open for lunch and dinner, too, but we're relishing the addition of a new downtown breakfast that works for out-of-towners while still placating Dallasites who want grits, not gimmicks.
Overeasy, 1914 Commerce St.